MiSTer FPGA Forum

@emilion and @leew Had to ask... would you guys do it again knowing what you know now? Are you happy with the end result? Would you take another route (like Retro Castle IO or standard MiSTer Tower of Power? Any lessons learned other than "don't use too much solder on the through hole connectors" and "double check that you've ordere...

I just now re-checked the specs on my LEDs on digikey and it looks like my red is 39.75mcd, yellow is 42.75mcd, but the green is only 20mcd. What's the viewing angle on your green LED? Could it be that there's some 3D print stringing or something that is partially blocking the hole? No, I even cleaned it out with a pin to make sure. 100 degree vie...

This is what I picked: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/SN74LVC1G04DBVR/385716 The 04 would be the one to select, my understanding is that the 07 is a "library reference" which is a reference to some arbitrary parts library and not an accurate description. DBV is the SOT-23 footprint. And I think the R at the...

For me the green is less bright but I wouldn't say it's problematic: yfpvW3m.jpg I aimed for a target of about 40mcd for my LEDs as I hate having blinding LEDs on things. I just now re-checked the specs on my LEDs on digikey and it looks like my red is 39.75mcd, yellow is 42.75mcd, but the green is only 20mcd. Hmm... I could have sworn the datashee...

I used a lot of 99.9% IPA on the boards to clean them off, along with cloths and a toothbrush. I've removed as much as I could, but I may look to see if there's something else that could help remove the last remnants on the board. Any suggestions? I found this to be quite good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XDCRLR6/ I also used a bit of I...

I used a lot of 99.9% IPA on the boards to clean them off, along with cloths and a toothbrush. I've removed as much as I could, but I may look to see if there's something else that could help remove the last remnants on the board. Any suggestions? Thanks for the link on the fan orientation. I specifically tested the air flow direction and chose to ...

I've completed all boards now. Bottom: 0hjemoD.jpg Top, in case. The camera really picks up the flux residue huh, not this noticeable to the naked eye. QBdEhjz.jpg Front cover on: Hq3dOhi.jpg The fan is very loud and appears to be a 30mm fan so the smallest Noctua fan won't fit... Also if the screws are tightened the fan seems to be in contact with...

USB! All ports working and LEDs lighting up when active. Also was able to test the optical audio and it is working as well. jn7YOMb.jpg A couple of hiccups with mispicked parts but got there eventually. Have gone through and desoldered all the components that were mispicks. I've found the best way to desolder a component is to actually add MORE sol...

For U4, in respect to the printed board and the board connections, the bottom left pin (next to white dot) is pin 1 (5V in). Bottom middle is pin 2 (ground). Bottom right pin is pin 3 (USB_EN). And the pin numbers continue counter clockwise with 4 is the top right (-FLAG), 5 is top middle (ILIM), 6 is top left (VBUS). So the datasheet for the part ...

The reason the SNAC not working is kind of annoying is because I wanted the option of using my G-Con45 for Point Blank. Nice! Congrats! Can you try to run the memory tester and report back the maximum speed you are able to get out of the SDRAM? I'm curious how it compares to the MiSTer SDRAM expansion boards. I ran the mem test and it settled to 14...

I've verified almost all the other components now, hdmi, scart, vga, analogue audio out, ethernet, fan headers, switches, everything seems to work. As people have said the USB part of the board seems to be isolated from the rest. The HDMI and Ethernet also seem to be isolated pass-through connections. EF3tXjc.jpg vb3LGHF.jpg Don't have anything on ...

Reading through the data sheets I'm now confident that my USB issue is the power IC (U4), when inputting the BOM I must have accidentally selected the wrong component. The USB controller appears to be active low on USB_EN while my power IC is active high. 1 digit wrong on my part ID. Other than that, I think my board is probably fine, I don't think...

Have I just jumped into this without setting up the DE-10 first? Am I supposed to be connecting it to my PC and configuring it and then plugging it into my Multisystem? Or am I just missing something obvious? Yeah you do need to set up the MiSTer FPGA, you need to run mr fusion first: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/mr-fusion What I haven't really...

Not going to lie, the usb and ethernet cable situation in this area of the board is frankly terrible. If your USB or ethernet adaptors are too long or too fat it won't fit (which is actually most cables). You have maybe a maximum of 2mm clearance from the edge of the USB A male connector: 2o6MfSg.jpg From below: Y3RUMdv.jpg And about 22mm clearance...

The cable works when connecting to pc, and I've tried a few cables. Don't get any USB LEDs at all. Although there appears to be continuity. All of the 5V lines and 1.8V lines appear to be correct (USB_EN is 5V). Problem seems to be that all of the 3.3V lines are showing as 4V. XIN is 3.3V but XOUT is 4V. So... the crystal is bad? Anyway, the first ...

Your board is looking fancy and clean emiliom. I finished my board as well, but unfortunately none of the USB ports work, any ideas/suggestions on how to track down the issue? The DE-10 board connects to the PC via USB when powered, so the issue is on this board. Could this be due to damage to the 40 pin header when desoldering it? 5sWj3Oe.jpg lyBr...

Okay, so the MiSTer board doesn't connect to my MultiSystem board. The 40 pin female headers need to be extra tall and not standard height. Due to this the pins don't connect to my board. The distance from the board measures just under 14mm, so it seems like that means it must be a standard 8.5mm socket with two 2.5mm spacers, totalling 13.5mm. May...

I have all the components now, well other than the fact that I bought 5 SCART connectors but only received 3... Haven't yet got around to soldering them though. Here's a pic of the board with the final components in-place (not soldered): XeIbDaw.png Final cost worked out to be £420.96, so about £84.2 per board. Hopefully I can get the components so...

I got my PCB's delivered today. This is what I'm working with now:

Tomorrow the rest of the components should be here and then the fun begins.

If I were to use a site like JLCPCB and submit the required files, would I get back a full working Misterboard like you would have bought previously? Or just the Base PCB with missing components on it? So JLCPCB will make the base PCB without any components, but they do also have an assembly option as well where you can submit a parts list. In the...

I like where you're going with this. Any other suggestions? I think the idea of the Ethernet connector on the board was to avoid plugging into the Nano directly as (at least some of) its connectors are known to be fragile. Going to a right angle on the SCART would make life easier for sourcing but cable management could be very tricky. It looks li...

Do you (or anyone) have a good working bom for jlcpcb? Thanks! I used JLCPCB but I'm hesitant to provide a specific BOM until I have confirmed it works because I'm a complete noob when it comes to this kind of thing. Also some of the parts are simply not available, with no good alternatives (headphone audio jacks and scart connector). A few parts ...

From the pictures I've seen of the KLBR 4 the outside of the socket is smooth while the one on the Heber board is ribbed (screw thread?) like the 4832.2320. It does take up to 1A though. I've added the KLBR 4 to the spreadsheet as well, although there isn't much stock that I could find. Farnell has 30, but I couldn't find it at all on DigiKey, Mou...

BTW I'm looking back over the parts again and was trying to find good information about the crystal specifications and finally ended up finding the FE2.1 used in another PCB design which has some recommended crystals, well "reference" parts: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Wiki_MiSTer/wiki/USB-Hub-Assembly-(DIY) So... yeah looks like the ...

So it turns out that the github repo has some high quality images as well that I must have somehow missed before: https://github.com/Heber-co-uk/Multisystem/tree/main/images The 2 HDMI male connections on the PCB is a kind of simple HDMI bridge that you then chop out of the main PCB and use as a bridge from the DE10 to the Multisystem board. Simila...

To be clear, only the following items had enough information in the BOM to identify a part: SW6 & SW7 (SNAC & VGA switch), SW2 (main power switch), U1 (Inverter), U2 & U3 (SDRAM), U4 (Power switch IC), U5 (USB Hub Controller), F1 (Fuse), P2 (uSDCard slot), P3 & P4 (Horizontal HDMI ports), P5 (MiSTer Multisystem Expansion port), P6 (...

Would like to buy a MiSter Mulisystem but that doesn't seem like a possibility, so I thought I would have a go at having an assembled PCB made... But the provided BOM is terrible bordering on useless. I've spent a lot of time trying to decipher this and think I finally have a mostly complete parts list (but take this with a grain of salt as I reall...