Show Us Your MiSTers

[venice]

After SNAC and SD-Extensions I added the OLED for my Software Add-On to the case.
Just a few small screws to buy

With_OLED_Small.jpg

With_OLED_Top_Small.jpg

[RealLarry]

This is the setup of my (first) MiSTer. I called it "MiST(er)2Go" as it's a portable system of MiST, MiSTer and a WeTek Hub (CoreELEC). It's not a beauty, but an unremarkable case I'm carrying along when traveling. No tedium guaranteed.

[iainjh]

This was once an "Electron-Pi".... it is now a "Mister-Electron".

Cabling isn't as neat as I wanted but there's precious little space at the front of the keyboard so needs must.

The ram just clears the rear of the keyboard frame. I had expected to tilt the board back more, but only needed a little in the end. I used half a Raspberry Pi heatsink plus an oversized fan running off 3.3v. Considering how little in/out airflow there is, it seems happy and doesn't get tooo warm even after a few hours of 486 or Amiga. Or BBC/Electron!

The USB keyboard encoder is from the wonderful Tynemouth Software. The Acorn Electron has a solid, compact keyboard and has plenty of keys (F keys are derived from CapsLock & number keys), CapsLock-Break is F12, perfect for most cores and in keeping with it's original Shift-Break. But some cores need extra so there's a wireless controller to hand, plus a wireless PC keyboard out of sight.

Other stuff- wired ethernet, 6 port USB hub, 8BitDo wireless, keyboard/mouse wireless combo, monster joysticks USB<>DB9 adaptor, USB key for easy access to \games at the rear. HDMI out and micro-SD extender cable are cut in. I also cut in a couple momentary switches to the rear for user and reset. I filled in some holes to the left side where the tape and RFports were... the elec case has an amazing array of holes that just fall to place for new uses. How did they know?

Power is via a short switched extender cable poked out the back so it can also be powered on/off without yanking cables.

There is some case tidying left to do, I'll think about that in a few months once it's bedded in.

it feels so much better (for me anyway!) being in a retro keyboard... aesthetics and all that

cheers!

[dataDave]

vnMHfm4.jpg

[kensan]

Awesome, i like that. Any chance you could share a parts list? I'd really like to find those buttons, for one...

I made a metal case base on a amplifier case, there may be too much hot melt glue inside.
It's very compact, no suit for IO Board. But I don' t have a CRT, so the IO Board is optional.
Please show your MiSTer too

sorry too later to see the post, you can search in AliExpress for "12mm button with led"

[kensan]

I made a metal case base on a amplifier case, there may be too much hot melt glue inside.
It's very compact, no suit for IO Board. But I don' t have a CRT, so the IO Board is optional.
Please show your MiSTer too

made some changes:
replace the type-c charge port that has a pd ic ,so i can use pd charger and c to c cable to power on it.
remake the usb hub, more elegant than before.
use connector instead of soldering, more tidy than before.
use a silent 2.5cm fans instead of turbo fans to reduce noise.

IMG_20210320_121132.jpg

IMG_20210320_130503.jpg

IMG_20210326_231922.jpg

IMG_20210326_231929.jpg

[warham]

That might be the same case i used for my first or second mister. They look very similar but slightly different sizes. My thingiverse has some side panels for them. ( this was a reply to an earlier post but it didn't post to the right location in the thread )

woTiEFj.jpg

[antoniovillena]

MiSTer inside TheVic20, part 1

[antoniovillena]

MiSTer inside TheVic20, part 2

[terminator2k2]

After SNAC and SD-Extensions I added the OLED for my Software Add-On to the case.
Just a few small screws to buy

Nice Job with that @ Venice

[venice]

Nice Job with that @ Venice

Many Thanks.
I like the style of your cabling
and the idea to put the MT32-pi,
which is a really great add-on for the MiSTer,
into the case.

[JeremyC]

I built an arcade around mine. This was initially going to have an Intel NUC running Mame inside but I took the plunge with Mister FPGA and couldn't be happier!

[bazza_12]

wow! that's really good woodwork.. great design

[PikWik]

really enjoying this thread.
the MiSTer is such a small and capable device that begs for it to be put in all-in-ones or retro inspired case designs.

simple cases are great and functional, but the all-in-one setups make the MiSTer feel more like a computer/console

[Yoreo]

The case I used is a Morex 557 mini itx case. I ended up replacing the stock momentary switch with a 19mm latching one. I had to use a step bit to enlarge the original hole to accommodate the replacement switch. The external front mounted reset, ost, and user buttons are 14mm in size.

For the panel mount usb cables, I cut them to approximate length and directly soldered some type A male connectors to the ends which are then plugged directly into the usb hub.

For the I/O shield, I used a print from the 2nd file from the following link.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4738986

DFJ0pqs.jpg

rj1rify.jpeg

[muthuxmut]

I built an arcade around mine. This was initially going to have an Intel NUC running Mame inside but I took the plunge with Mister FPGA and couldn't be happier!

this is a bit of a sleeper
can you tell us more about the buttons and dial please

[wodmarach]

this is a bit of a sleeper
can you tell us more about the buttons and dial please

The spinner looks like a spintrak by ultimarc it's a good quality spinner.

[WILL1384]

I wanted a nice case for the MiSTer FPGA, and I wanted a case to protect the MiSTer FPGA, so I tried a 3D printed case, but I did not like it very much and I had to make some modifications to it because I had newer versions of the MiSTer FPGA IO and USB board, so I decided to try to use ether a computer case or project box for my MiSTer FPGA, BTW something that I noticed was that the computer cases were often ether too small, or too big, and that project boxes were hard to find in a larger size.

Then I found a nice looking aluminum project box that was 250x205x100mm in size, made with 1.5mm thick aluminum, and I decided to try it, the box was nice and well made, however the aluminum is a bit soft, and this box was pre-painted with a "silver" paint of some kind and for better or worse the paint is pretty tough.

The next step was figuring out the placement of all the buttons and plugs I was going to install, LOL, I used Microsoft Paint to make a grid of 10MM squares that was 250mm by 100MM in size, then made drawings of the parts I was going to use with 10MM and 5MM blocks, I used the part sizes listed on the product's web page.

The next step was to draw that grid on the backside of the project box face plates, I did not want the lines to change or get erased has I worked on the face plates, so I used a metal scribe to mark the lines, I then laid out the buttons and other parts on the grid, for the USB plugs and buttons I just used the nut that holds them in place, then I used a pencil to mark were I wanted them, I tried to keep everything lined up to the grid, sometimes with the buttons and USB plugs I made extra lines at 5MM that were half of one or more of the 10MM squares to keep the holes lined up, BTW make sure to remember you are working from behind the face plate so you don't mess up your placement on the front of the face plate.

Next I used a center punch to mark the center of the holes, and I start the holes with a 2MM drill bit, you just keep using larger and larger drill bits until you get the hole size you need, for mounting stuff to the project box I finished with a 3.5MM drill, for buttons, USB, Ethernet, and video connectors I still started with a 2MM drill bit and worked up to a 3.5MM drill but then went to a step drill to finish the hole.

To make the square holes I used a nibbler, I used a metal scribe to draw the square I want using the grid to keep it lined up, and I drill a hole in the square large enough for the nibbler to fit into, then I start cutting with the nibbler, you need to go slow and let your hand have some rest now and then.

I tried to figure out how I was going to mount the MiSTer FPGA to the bottom of the project box, and made a few mistakes because I was in a hurry, I drilled a few extra holes, LOL, also I worried about breaking off one or more of the ports or connectors if I got too rough with the MiSTer FPGA when trying to cram it into the small project box, something that helped me a lot was mounting the MiSTer FPGA and power supply up off the bottom of the project box about 20MM to 30MM to allow some of the wires to go under them, I used 3MM brass standoffs to mount the MiSTer FPGA, 5v power supply and MiSTer MT32-Pi to the project box, I also used a 3D printed part to cover the back of the Raspberry Pi 3 B+, I noticed that I was sometimes bumping into the back of the Raspberry Pi when moving stuff around, and was afraid I would eventually knock a part of of the PCB board and damage the Raspberry Pi.

For the LEDs I used 1/8W 1% Resistors, and used this web page to calculate what resistors I needed:

Current Limiting Resistor Calculator for Leds
http://ledcalc.com/#calc

for the "M16F-Y ATI 16mm Momentary Yellow LED 1.8V" I used a 220 Ohm, for the "M16F-R ATI 16mm Momentary Red LED 1.8V" I used a 220 Ohm resistor, for the "M16F-G ATI 16mm Momentary Green LED 2.8V" I used a 150 Ohm resistor.

I ordered a "LANMU Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Adapter (18.9in/48cm)" from Amazon, it worked on my computer so I "thought" it would work on the MiSTer FPGA, but I was wrong, I thought that the cable was too long at 18 inches, so I cut the cable in half and soldered the shorter end back to the SD card socket, still works on my computer and still fails to work on my MiSTer FPGA, so I ordered the (9.8in/25cm) long one and it works, well that's strange.

Here is how I wired the buttons and LEDs.

MiSTer FPGA_bUTTONS_001.png

Here is how I wired the power.

MiSTer FPGA_Power_001.png

Here is a look inside from the top.

MNISTER_FPGA_CASE_INSIDE_007.jpg

Here is the front of the case.

MNISTER_FPGA_CASE_OUTSIDE_002.jpg

Here is the back of the case.

MNISTER_FPGA_CASE_OUTSIDE_003.jpg

A view of it powered on with the top removed, this was before I installed the SD card SD Card Extension Cable.

MNISTER_FPGA_CASE_OUTSIDE_AND_INSIDE_001.jpg

====MiSTer FPGA parts that I used:



----------eBay

MiSTer FPGA 7 Port USB HUB V2.1 w/ Bridge Board and Power Splitter Cable - it's nice and works well, but it would save space in a small case to use a small USB hub.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MiSTer-FPGA-7- ... 4406703859

Mister FPGA SD Board XSD v2.5 128MB - you need this for cores like AO486
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mister-FPGA-SD ... 3882448497

Mister FPGA IO Board v6.1 XL Newest Revision!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mister-FPGA-IO ... 4757587060

VGA Pass Through Panel Mount D-Series connector flange panel jack
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-Pass-Throu ... 2995996731

Wall plate: VGA Female/Female & Stereo TRS 3.5mm Audio Gold Plated Ivory - I only used the panel mount audio connector from this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wall-plate-VGA ... 2614555629

M16F-Y ATI 16mm Momentary Yellow LED 1.8V 4.3V PushButton Switch Flat Top MOD - User button and LED - kinda bright
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M16F-Y-ATI-16m ... 1589389723

M16F-R ATI 16mm Momentary Red LED 1.8V 4.3V Push Button Depth Flat Top MOD - User button and LED - kinda bright
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M16F-R-ATI-16m ... 2338931978

M16F-G ATI 16mm Momentary Green LED 2.8V 4.3V Push Button Depth Flat Top MOD - User button and LED - kinda bright
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M16F-G-ATI-16m ... 2338932019

Panel mount HDMI connector flange mount panel jack
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-mount-HD ... 2948175305

USB 2.0 3.0 Female Socket Plug Panel Mount Adapter Waterproof Connector With Cap - It took about 22 days to get from China
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-3-0-Fe ... 2494337048



----------Amazon

10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A 2.1mm x 5.5 mm Male & Female Connectors - I had them for another project I was working on, connects to 5V power supply.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PS8T2KM

8Bitdo Wireless USB Adapter - works well but you need to update the firmware on a PC when you get it.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0786JC6VW

Tysun Silver Aluminum Electronic Enclosure Project Box - very nice metal box, but almost too small - do not over tighten the screws or you will strip the threads.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08G4ZKVL1

Real Time Clock Board V1.3 Board for Mister FPGA - needs a CR1220 battery.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08Q4C5SDN

Panasonic CR1220 3 Volt Lithium Coin Battery
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014WXZO0G

CanaKit Raspberry Pi WiFi Wireless Adapter/Dongle - this works, but I mostly use Ethernet.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GFAN498

SanDisk 400GB Ultra microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card - I have only used a little over half of the storage on this card.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08GYG5SVQ

M3 Male-Female Brass Spacer Standoff Kit - I used this on the MiSTer FPGA and MT32-Pi, I used a 3.5mm hand drill to enlarrge the holes on the MT32-Pi and Raspberry Pi.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5TJXY1

MEAN WELL 323282 RS-25-5 AC to DC Power Supply - works well.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DECXUD0

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown) - make sure to get the 5V version.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA

Quentacy 19mm 3/4" Latching Push Button Switch 12V DC 5A 250V AC LED Power Symbol ON-Off - works just fine on 5V.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JH9DKLQ

URBEST 10A 250V AC 3 Pcs Rocker Switch 3 Pin - the quality seems fine for this application.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B082Y57256

LATTECH 8 PCS 7 PIN JST XH Female Connector on Both Side - 300mm - for the user LEDs.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3CKJ51

LATTECH 12 PCS 5 PIN JST XH Female Connector on Both Side - 300mm - for the user push buttons.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07NV59YCQ

Monoprice 105441 1.5ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Male 28/24AWG Cable (Gold Plated) - they work but the plug is a bit long for working in a small case.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009GUXG92

Aux Cord for Car, CableCreation [2-Pack, 1.5ft, Nylon Braided]
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01K3WX6JG

Duttek USB Header to Micro USB Dupont Cable, 90 Degree Right Angle Micro USB Male to 5 Pin - I used this to connect power to the mt32-pi.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072Q1MBSG

Monoprice 1.5ft Ultra Slim SVGA Super VGA 30/32AWG M/M - just about the only low profile VGA cable I could find.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004C4XIOK

Ltvystore 1260PCS 63 Values 1 ohm - 10M ohm 1/8W Metal Film Resistors Assortment Kit - resistors for the user LEDs
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XSHCMVV

LoveRPi Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Computer with Heatsinks - this is for the MiSTer MT32-Pi - I used an old SD card for the MT32-Pi software
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CMC50S0

LANMU Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Adapter Flexible Extender (9.8in/25cm) - this one worked when the (18.9in/48cm) did not.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WLKLTTY



----------Other

MiSTer MT32-Pi - price was good and the shipping was quick

https://www.legacypixels.com/mister/

I used a short, thin, and cheap looking HDMI cable that I had got with something else years ago and never used, the cable was about 40cm long.



----------Tools and Supplies

Pro'sKit 900-215 Nibbler - cheap but usable - I used this to make square holes, you need strong hands for this, go slow and take breaks.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BN60XW

Step Drill Bit Set - I used a very cheap set to make round holes for the buttons, BTW the aluminum project box I used has very soft aluminum and the cheap step drills have a bad habit of pushing the metal out of the way and not drilling, basically when the aluminum gets hot and soft the step drill starts pushing metal instead of drilling metal.

Metric drill bit set - I used a very cheap set, and mostly used 2MM to 3.5MM drills, the 2MM drills were used to start the holes for buttons and mounting things, and I used the 3.5mm drill for the last drill size for mounting things like the power supply and the MiSTer FPGA.

I also used a cheap center punch and metal scribe to mark were to drill the holes.

Woodstock D4089 Machinist Square Set, 4-Piece - I have had them for years - used to help mark lines on the metal box for hole placement.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W16YSO

I used various M3 screws and M3 lock-nuts, I used M3 screws from the "M3 Male-Female Brass Spacer Standoff Kit" for mounting the MiSTer FPGA, MT32-Pi, and the 5V power supply, I used M3 16MM screws and lock-nuts for the HDMI, VGA, Ethernet, and the SD card Extender Panel Mount.

I used zip ties.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties - I love these things - better than zip ties when you have to make changes.
https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-R ... B000F5K82A



----------3D printed parts

Raspberry Pi 3 Slim Case with Heatsink Cutout - I only used the bottom, and I used some M3 standoffs to make a gap between the Raspberry Pi and case, used for protection.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1415895

SD card Extender Panel Mount - I had to sand off a bit of plastic from each side of the SD card Extender to get it to fit inside of this 3D printed part.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3854077

MiSTer FPGA Real Time Clock & IO Board Supports
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4337299

[Yopachi]

I call it "MiSTer Blue"
Almost everything in my blue build is from Amazon. This thread has helped and inspired me to make something I feel proud of. Here are some essentials for the build:

Sutinna ITX Computer Case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QHJ7ZH4/

Dual USB 3.0 Type A to 20 Pin Header
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719J5M9V/

CanaKit Raspberry Pi WiFi Wireless Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GFAN498/

USB Extension Cable - iGreely 2Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C87FYLY/

USB Power Strip Surge Protector - SUPERDANNY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NTCZFHL/

Bluwee HDMI Extension Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXD15TE/

Monoprice 1.5ft Ultra Slim SVGA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4XIOK/

Red Bubble MiSTer logo for sides for the case
https://www.redbubble.com/i/sticker/MiS ... 2114.OP1U7

SVGA Gender Changer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WLO2EGG/

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[LamerDeluxe]

IMG_20210424_170250.jpg

IMG_20210424_170021.jpg

This is my Looking Glass colored acrylic case that I got from https://misterfpga.co.uk

I already had the regular clear one, but ordered this color as soon as I found out it existed. It looks like real glass, like the old Coca-Cola bottles. It complements the blue-green color of my PCBs nicely and still lets you see the colors of everything inside clearly. I also like how it has labels for everything on it.

Nat from misterfpga.co.uk kindly helped me out with lower profile buttons, so the included plungers would fit. As well as a set of 5 mm LEDs, because the ones that I had were 3 mm.

[espo83]

GVO9KM8.jpg

KFkxM78.jpg

Did some rework on my MiSTer. routed the power cables for the USB hub and DE-10 internally, and added a single connector for power. Connected all that to a button so I can power it on and off. Also added a badge from etsy. Feels a nicer without the cables looping around the case.

[locupleto]

Hi fellow MiSTer fans,

I decided to use a broken old Mac Classic I had at home as my MiSTer case. My aim was to get everything working well including cooling but keep it looking as stock as possible.

Here is the end result:

IMG_1.jpg

Parts list:

• An empty shell of a 1991 Macintosh Classic with working period correct keyboard and external speakers

• An Eyoyo 8 Inch HDMI Monitor 1024x768 Resolution

• A pretty std MiSTer setup with 128MB SDRAM, I/O Board, Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, USB Bridge, Protective Cover Plates, Bluetooth dongle

• Aluminum profiles, nuts and bolts for the frame to put the MiSTer into, electronics box to keep hide the cables and power supplies in

• Noctua NF-A4x20 5V PWM 40x40x20 for chassi cooling, ADB to USB adaptor, HDMI splitter cable, various internal cables

• 8BitDo G Classic Edition Bluetooth Game Pad

IMG_25.jpg

In front:

• 1 SDCard reader accessible from the diskette bay

IMG_2.jpg

At the back:

• 1 standard Apple ADB bus connector (for Apple vintage keyboard / mouse)

• 4 USB connections

• 1 RJ45 Ethernet connector

• 1 3,5mm Audio Output connector

• 1 External HDMI splitter output

• 220V Power Inlet with On/Off switch

I started by assembling the MiSTer and making sure that worked.

IMG_5.jpg

I then made a simple aluminum frame and decided to mount the MiSTer upside down so that the fan sucks in air from the bottom of the Mac chassi. Carefully measuring and crafting the backplate of the frame was possibly the hardest part of the build. On the top of the frame I mounted an electronics box to hide the cables and power supplies. I mounted the external monitor on the fronplate and the complete Mac is held together with four screws exactly like the original.

IMG_3.jpg

Best regards
Urban

[AnthonyQ]

I'm doing exactly this as well (Mister in a Mac Classic case)

Looking at your setup, I'm guessing that you have gaps between the bezel and the 8" monitor??

[Jukk@M]

MiSTer's new home.
Assembled in the case of an old digibox (HDTHUNDER HD5521SR).

1.jpg

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[venice]

MiSTer's new home.

Nice build.
Another running tty2oled in a case, Cool

[locupleto]

I'm doing exactly this as well (Mister in a Mac Classic case)

Looking at your setup, I'm guessing that you have gaps between the bezel and the 8" monitor??

Cool, yes you are right. The original screen isn't flat so there will be a gap.

I don't have access to any 3D-printer which probably would be the ideal solution. So instead I molded the gap using repair putty and painted it black.

As a note; this is actually my second Mac Classic build. In my previous build I did a similar thing but with a MacMini instead of the MiSTer. I used the same screen for that but that time I molded with air dry clay instead. That was cheaper to do but a bit harder to get right. See pictures from inside the front of the MiSTer build.

Good luck on your build AnthonyQ; please show it here when its done.

[AnthonyQ]

I didn't even think about molding the facia, and yes will put a photo up when I've completed the build (it's going slow, but I'm not in any rush so to speak)

[werpu]

I have made an Arcade/Vectrex like Docking station for a custom case...
The mister is removable, but stays there most of the time. The arcade docking station
is a mix of 3d printed parts and plywood. The insertable mister case is fully 3d printed!

PXL_20210504_173413284 (3).jpg

[cobrawolf]

I have made an Arcade/Vectrex like Docking station for a custom case...
The mister is removable, but stays there most of the time. The arcade docking station
is a mix of 3d printed parts and plywood. The insertable mister case is fully 3d printed!

Looks great! At first I thought you had modified one of those Kodak photo printing kiosks.

[hitm4n]

Looks like something straight from te 70's. Very cool.