tty2oled Soft&Hardware Add-On (Shows Core based Pictures on a Display)

[dave18]

Also, you only need an sd card in the TTGO if you are using the sd version of tty2oled (and then it will only contain the xbmp image files) . For the USB version no sd card is needed, you need to upload the binary to the flash of the actual TTGO (which you also need to do for the other versions) .

[Reg]

So repying to your first post was...

An thank you - I had to be cheeky - but is there anywhere I can download a pre-compiled version for the TTGO ?

If not, I have zero idea on how to compile sketches and is there a guide that is user friendly so I can learn and try to do this ?

Not going to lie - seeing the binary there was a shortcut to an area that I have least confidence in being able to get right.

Thank you.

Then your reply popped up...

...now I am completely lost !

So I have to take a binary and upload it to the TTGO before it will work ? Damn !

This is what I get by building and thinking that it was add the file and done. Lesson to idiots like me - understand what you're doing before investing.

[dave18]

Have a look at the instructions that Venice has provided here https://github.com/venice1200/MiSTer_tt ... o-Settings
It's not too difficult, have a read and give it a try and come back and ask for help if you get stuck.

[Reg]

Will give it a go - but already one question, need to sleep be will be back tomorrow.

I've installed Ardunio.
I've installed the board.
I've installed U8g2.

2021-05-17 00_45_24-Library Manager.png

Here it says...

U8g2 Display Library

You need to add the U8g2 Library from Oli Kraus to your Arduino System.
Use the Arduino IDE Library Manager (Sketch > Include Library > Manage Libraries) and search for U8g2.
Important: As we use an Display with a Pixel width of 256 we need to uncomment // Enable U8G2_16BIT in u8g2.h.
See 16-Bit-Mode for more details.

Q: Where on earth do I find the u8g2.h file ? I've searched in my install folder and not there for Arduino.

Thank you.

[RealLarry]

Case is finished and the display looks small but perfectly formed.

Dave, I'm about to create a 3D printed case for the 3.2“ / 256x64 displays. I know that you have your (smaller) display setup integrated to your "real" case, but I'm specially interested in how you've "stacked" the OLED, PCB and ESP together to estimate the dimensions. So may I ask you to open up your case again and take two photos: One of the "layers" and one from USB connector side of the ESP?

Examples attached.

All others out there are also invited to share their setups, if interested for an external case.
Many thanks in advance!

[venice]

U8g2 Display Library

You need to add the U8g2 Library from Oli Kraus to your Arduino System.
Use the Arduino IDE Library Manager (Sketch > Include Library > Manage Libraries) and search for U8g2.
Important: As we use an Display with a Pixel width of 256 we need to uncomment // Enable U8G2_16BIT in u8g2.h.
See 16-Bit-Mode for more details.

Q: Where on earth do I find the u8g2.h file ? I've searched in my install folder and not there for Arduino.

I have checked the U8g2 Library Code and it look's to me that the 16 Bit Mode is automatically enabled if you use an ESP Device.

Code: Select all

/* always enable U8G2_16BIT on 32bit environments, see issue https://github.com/olikraus/u8g2/issues/1222 */
#ifndef U8G2_16BIT
#if defined(unix) || defined(__arm__) || defined(__xtensa__) || defined(xtensa) || defined(__arc__) || defined(ESP8266) || defined(ESP_PLATFORM)
#define U8G2_16BIT
#endif
#endif

No need to enable it manually.
I will correct the Wiki.

[dave18]

Q: Where on earth do I find the u8g2.h file ? I've searched in my install folder and not there for Arduino.

On my Windows machine the library is installed in Documents/Arduino/libraries

[dave18]

Case is finished and the display looks small but perfectly formed.

Dave, I'm about to create a 3D printed case for the 3.2“ / 256x64 displays. I know that you have your (smaller) display setup integrated to your "real" case, but I'm specially interested in how you've "stacked" the OLED, PCB and ESP together to estimate the dimensions. So may I ask you to open up your case again and take two photos: One of the "layers" and one from USB connector side of the ESP?

Examples attached.

All others out there are also invited to share their setups, if interested for an external case.
Many thanks in advance!

I've taken some pics without removing all the innards, hopefully they be good enough, let me know if not.

You'll see there is no PCB, I just run dupont wires straight from the ESP to the LCD.

IMG_20210517_095407.jpg

IMG_20210517_095355.jpg

IMG_20210517_095336.jpg

IMG_20210517_095234.jpg

[RealLarry]

I've taken some pics without removing all the innards, hopefully they be good enough, let me know if not.
You'll see there is no PCB, I just run dupont wires straight from the ESP to the LCD.

I see...useless for my intention but always nice and interesting to see others setups. Anyway, thanks a lot!!

[venice]

New Arduino HowTo

I want to give Non-Arduino Users and Beginners a bit more help.
Check my Arduino HowTo for Windows. It should be possible to use it, slightly adjusted, for Linux as well.

https://github.com/venice1200/MiSTer_tt ... Windows%29

Report issues, corrections, typos or questions here or open an issue at Github.

[Reg]

Thank you Vince for that very detailed post, that showed that at least on this side the errors will have gone on software installation.

My conclusions are at the end of this shortist post and I think the error is on me, I just don't know what my next purchase should be and would value some help.

Connected to the PC and following all the steps my final output is this.

Looks OK.png

I am connected to the PC via a USB cable to COM4 and eveyrthing appeared to work there.

I had given up the breadboard in the middle and wired everything directly - wanted to assume that wiring was a problem here.

As much as possible I went with the same colours from here...

Wires.jpg

...purely for the fact I needed it to be as clear and mistake free as possible.

With the wires now clearly marked - I have buzzed out from pad to pad from the display to the board, everything seems to be ok - including all the grounds that are now wrapped up in this...

ground.jpg

This brings me to the conclusion that I have brought the wrong hardware or there is something that I am simply missing, I reckon the hardware.

The software uploads the sketch to the board based on the output I am seeing.

The wiring is looking good.

The device has power but when the upload completes, the display does not do anything.

Thoughts welcome...

[venice]

Thank you Vince...

venice please

Thoughts welcome...

Make some detailed pictures from both sides of the ESP and the Display.
Did you set the Display to 4SPI?
See https://github.com/venice1200/MiSTer_tt ... rical#4spi

[Reg]

Firstly and most importantly, apoligies Venice.

I think you have hit the nail on the head with the 4SPI.

I looked at the picuture and somehow transposed in my mind that mine was the same. There are idiots and you are reading the words of one.

R5-R8.png

This is my Display.

It looks like I need to remove the resitor from R6 and replace on R5 ?

That is skills that I've not done before - is one option to remove R6 and just bridge R5.

Again, sorry for all the questions - I am keen to learn - just dumber then most and trying to make the best of my skills.

[venice]

Firstly and most importantly, apoligies Venice.

Thx

I think you have hit the nail on the head with the 4SPI.
I looked at the picuture and somehow transposed in my mind that mine was the same. There are idiots and you are reading the words of one.
...
This is my Display.
It looks like I need to remove the resitor from R6 and replace on R5 ?
That is skills that I've not done before - is one option to remove R6 and just bridge R5.
Again, sorry for all the questions - I am keen to learn - just dumber then most and trying to make the best of my skills.

If the table on the back of your display is the same as the one from here
viewtopic.php?p=16725#p16725
then yes, you have to remove R6 and solder it as R5.

Another easy way is to remove R6 and solder a Solder-Bridge on the R5 Solder-Pads.

[Reg]

Holy mother of God !

I have never had to work with any component that small before. Let's give it ago.

So getting it off was easy...

One.jpg

Then it worked once put back on ( but not as perfect as before ) !

Thrre.jpg

Thank you Venice and Dave for help along the way!

@Venice, do you have a tip-jar or anything else like that I can contribuite to ?

[venice]

Holy mother of God !
I have never had to work with any component that small before. Let's give it ago.
So getting it off was easy...
Then it worked once put back on ( but not as perfect as before ) !
Thank you Venice and Dave for help along the way!

Great! Is it working with the MiSTer together as well?

[venice]

@Venice, do you have a tip-jar or anything else like that I can contribuite to ?

That was the start signal for an idea I had in mind just a little longer

>>Post-Cardware<<
@all tty2oled & i2c2oled users, contributors and interrests.
If you enjoy the project and if you like to donate to me send me a postcard with an nice picture of your City/Area/Location/Country/Continent/Planet.
Drop me an PM with the Subject "Cardware" and I will answer.

...and you can build pictures and make them available.

[venice]

...
With this I can use female Dupont wires on the screen and bare wire on the other end into the screw terminal. This and the screen in 4SPI mode from the factory I believe that will offer a solder free solution for building the tty2oled board and screen.

The terminal block is an great idea for testing but you need a lot (14) wires from the terminal block to the display
if you don't find an easy solution for bridging GND 7 times.

And I was not aware that you can order 4SPI-Ready SSD1322 Displays.
Thx for the Links.

[Reg]

Great! Is it working with the MiSTer together as well?

Perfectly !!!

It's working like a dream, this is WIP case build but this truely is the icing on the cake here !

Thank you.

IMG_9109.jpg

IMG_9108.jpg

IMG_9107.jpg

[Mellified]

The terminal block is an great idea for testing but you need a lot (14) wires from the terminal block to the display
if you don't find an easy solution for bridging GND 7 times.

Again, hardware moron here. Is there an easy way to bridge the ground lines? I've seen larger bread boards with one column of holes are all connected for example. Connect one hole to ground and all the others are ground too as I understand it.

[Reg]

This is what I did.

Fed all grounds into a block like this...

ground2.jpg

Soldered all pins together and taped and sealed with electrical tape.

ground.jpg

Eight grounds from the OLED go into this and one ground from this block is fed to the GND on the TTGO.

[FPGA64]

I built this at lunchtime using a Circuit Board sourced from the spares of Gojira54. Its a wonderful little thing. Thanks for making this project and open sourcing it. Thanks also to whoever designed the circuit board it makes it much more easy to build. Its just a case of soldering some pin headers.

I couldnt get the tiny tiny resistor off the OLED for 4 SPI mode so I just cut R5 using snips and solder bridged the correct jumper on the OLED

[gojira54]

Core doesn't exist yet I know, but made a couple more...

E0ULodu.png

GfjT0FE.png

[RealLarry]

Thanks also to whoever designed the circuit board it makes it much more easy to build. Its just a case of soldering some pin headers.

That's me, you're welcome. That was born of pure self-interest, but with "open" in mind as in the next post and upcoming project...but psssssst! Don't let anyone know publicly!

[RealLarry]

A case for an external tty2oled with a 3.12" SSD1322 display. WIll be on project site this day.
https://github.com/venice1200/MiSTer_tt ... ases/Cases

[venice]

Again, hardware moron here. Is there an easy way to bridge the ground lines? I've seen larger bread boards with one column of holes are all connected for example. Connect one hole to ground and all the others are ground too as I understand it.

You can do this as well.

8gnd.png

Two GND Cables connected to each GND Terminal

[venice]

I built this at lunchtime using a Circuit Board sourced from the spares of Gojira54. Its a wonderful little thing. Thanks for making this project and open sourcing it. Thanks also to whoever designed the circuit board it makes it much more easy to build. Its just a case of soldering some pin headers.

I couldnt get the tiny tiny resistor off the OLED for 4 SPI mode so I just cut R5 using snips and solder bridged the correct jumper on the OLED

"lunchtime project" , cool.
If you like let us know how it looks like.

[Mellified]

Two GND Cables connected to each GND Terminal

That's exactly what I'm thinking. I have the boards and breakout here. Just waiting for the screens to arrive from China.

[venice]

New Pictures available

Final Fight, ProGear, The Punisher, Solomons Key(2x), Street Fighter 2, Street Fighter 2 Turbo, Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo.
All made by "jawler".

Wonderswan by "gojira54".

Computer:
Altair8800, Amstrad, Apogee, Aquarius, BK0011M, CoCo2, EDSAC, Galaksija, Jupiter, MultiComp,
ORAO, Oric, PDP1, SamCoupe, Specialist (Text), SVI328, TI99-4A, TRS-80, TSConf (Text), Vector06, VIC20 (Update) & Arduboy.

Console:
AY-3-8500

Lists updated.

[venice]

Updates

• USB-Version
  Autodetection of Board Type in Arduino Sketch when using the Arduino IDE.
  No need to set the Board manually in the Program Code.
  Functionality tested with Arduino IDE 1.8.13, ESP32 Package 1.0.6, ESP8266 Package 3.0.0,
  TTGO-T8, Wemos Lolin32 and NodeMCU 8266.

• New (untested) PCB by RealLarry for ESP32 Wemos Lolin32 v1.0.0/ESP32 Lolin32 (with Solder-Bridges).
  Use the solder bridges on TOP for Wemos Lolin32 v1.0.0 .
  Use the solder bridges on BOT for Lolin32.

• Pictures: I think we have now a picture for all actual Computer & Console Cores.

• Removed Stuff related to ESP32 Devkitc v4 (doesn't work correctly).

Got my first Cardware Donation from Bracknell/UK