9.7" iPad Retina Screen Perfect for MiSTer, $60 Fully Assembled 😄

[MrDo]

If this refers to the blue/white popup shown by the display interface board (Realtek), I haven't found any way to disable, and I checked in Factory Settings (advanced) also. I get the popup once when loading a core or going back to main menu. Shows frequency and resolution.

BTW I'm using a panel & interface from LaserBear which I believe is the same hardware.

Yeah that’s what I meant. I am also using the LaserBear.

I discovered I don’t have the problem with the NES core. I guess it depends on the native refresh rate.

What video_mode and vsync_adjust are you using?

[limi]

Ah, I see — I thought they were talking about the MiSTer video info.

[edr]

I discovered I don’t have the problem with the NES core. I guess it depends on the native refresh rate.

What video_mode and vsync_adjust are you using?

I get the popup with NES also, and all other Console cores, haven't tested PC cores.

MiSTer.ini:

Code: Select all

video_mode=13
vsync_adjust=0

These settings work fine, haven't messed much with other values once these worked. And I've set the LaserBear LCD to 1:1 in the LCD panel settings (this setting works on the latest LaserBears, not the earlier ones I don't think).

[aberu]

I just got the VGA + HDMI version recently, and it's really great, thanks @limi!

[MrDo]

I discovered I don’t have the problem with the NES core. I guess it depends on the native refresh rate.

What video_mode and vsync_adjust are you using?

I get the popup with NES also, and all other Console cores, haven't tested PC cores.

MiSTer.ini:

Code: Select all

video_mode=13
vsync_adjust=0

These settings work fine, haven't messed much with other values once these worked. And I've set the LaserBear LCD to 1:1 in the LCD panel settings (this setting works on the latest LaserBears, not the earlier ones I don't think).

Thanks for confirming. I have the same behaviour as you with vsync_adjust=0. It’s only when I set it to 2 I get what I had described.

I guess I have to live with it in order to have reduced lag.

[Jukk@M]

Does this work with VGA/HDMI RTD2556T board.

Should work for the HDMI input. VGA registers might not be initialized and thus this input would be unusable. Chip input 1 and 3 are configured for HDMI on the fw, if HDMI on your board uses one of these paths it will work.
Anycase, you can test it and revert back to the original firmware if it does not work. Just create a backup (do not forget to set 8 banks) and you will be on the safe side.

I checked the board, it was a VGA / HDMI RTD2550 board.
Does this board work?

RTD2550.jpg (1.24 MiB) Viewed 124734 times

[jca]

What did you use to display this information?

[Jukk@M]

What did you use to display this information?

Press and hold MENU when you turn on the screen.

[sonik]

Press and hold MENU when you turn on the screen.

Nice find!
My screen displays the exact same info as yours.
On the board it's written RTD2556 but the display shows RTD2550.

[Jukk@M]

Press and hold MENU when you turn on the screen.

Nice find!
My screen displays the exact same info as yours.
On the board it's written RTD2556 but the display shows RTD2550.

Are the markings visible on your disc chip.
My chip sanded off.

Up.jpg (1.26 MiB) Viewed 124610 times

Dw.jpg (789.45 KiB) Viewed 124610 times

[sonik]

Are the markings visible on your disc chip.
My chip sanded off.

My chip is just like yours. Have the realtek logo only. No model.
Also the same model info on the board. Aliexpress too?

[aberu]

Made a goofy stand that should reliably support the weight in either orientation (90 degree or normal). I know next to nothing of CAD (designed like 2 things before), but was fun to just make something for my own use. I'll share it here.

I scaled it up +1% so the screen would fit, but your results may vary as their assembly can be inconsistent. This is for the VGA + HDMI variation of the 9.7" aliexpress LCD that is in the first post in this thread. The stand that came with it was ridiculous and I wanted something that would support itself with semi clean edges. I might modify it later since I just finished the print and am testing it later today.

2022-01-26_15-48-47.png (827.35 KiB) Viewed 124428 times

[Corbot3000]

So I grabbed one of these displays with the 2x mini HDMI and I can't get it to recognize a signal with my MiSTer. I've tried a few different INI files but it just keeps displaying "No Signal". I've tried two different mini HDMI cables, both of which work fine connected to my Nintendo Switch and MacBook Pro (which recognizes the display at it's full resolution with no issue).

Any idea what could be going on here? Not sure what's going on with my MiSTer specifically, especially since my other devices work fine. Help!

[Wave]

How are you supplying power? It seems most people trying to power it solely via MiSTer USB are unsuccessful.

[aberu]

How are you supplying power? It seems most people trying to power it solely via MiSTer USB are unsuccessful.

Mine (VGA+HDMI version) came with a 12V 2A PSU.

[Wave]

Mine (VGA+HDMI version) came with a 12V 2A PSU.

Same for my dual-HDMI version, 12V 2A. (I can also power it from a USB port on my PC, but not one of MiSTer's.)

[CartoonDonkey]

Just wanted to say… I printed the wrong #@#^ version of a bezel for this screen. (Well, my ipad3 lcd fits, but the bank of buttons do not, for my setup.) I have the version of this that has a vga port and hdmi. I seem to have gotten mine before they were being offered with a case.

If anyone would like a free 3D printed bezel (front only) in matte dark grey / navy -provide postage and I will send it to you. Printed on a Prusa i3 makes+ -has a few little tiny nicks here and there, nothing too bad…. I’d rather keep it out of the trash.

Let me know! Send me a message if you’d like it.

[Stairwaytoevan]

Any thoughts on why my N64 with EON wouldn’t work with this screen?

https://retrosaga.ca/products/eon-super ... -22nd-july

I’m assuming it has something to do with the power draw (the EON is active but does not have an external power supply, gets all its juice from hdmi).

No issues running the same setup with my Mister…

[sonik]

If your display is from china then there's a chance of it now supporting a 480p signal.

[laotze]

For those who have gotten the brightness controls working, could you confirm whether you have the VGA-plus-HDMI or the 2-mini-HDMI model?

[rashohyo]

Hi everyone...
someone can tell me wich is the best ini file for this display? i mean the one with the best settings for each core (included minimig and ao486)
thanks a lot

[locutus2000]

I have an ipad air 2 lying around and collecting dust. Could I use that screen as well? Could I also convert the digitizer to USB for touch controls?

[Doozer]

I have an ipad air 2 lying around and collecting dust. Could I use that screen as well? Could I also convert the digitizer to USB for touch controls?

With this controller firmware, only Ipad 3 (new Ipad) and Ipad 4 screens are compatible unfortunately.

[Jontox]

Hi All,

I have to ask as it is something that happened to me and that could potentially makes others crazy.
I've bought that specific 9.7" iPad screen from Aliexpress and couldn't resist to test it out when it arrived.
The screen was nicely assembled and no scratch or whatsoever as other have experienced.

I had ordered a full 4K Mini HDMI to HDMI as it was stated by others that the one provided was just garbage.
On the first "switch on" of the screen, nothing was set up and it was scrolling to RGB White "service menu" demo with that black square displaying Fw version, screen type and max resolution.

Once everything set up, and the Mister started, no picture at all but the screen was working nice as I had tested it with my portable computer and that same mini HDMI -- HDMI cable.
I could not figure it out and though it was due to the Mister.ini or a lot.ini setting but not at all.

I was starting to search for another mini HDMI -- HDMI cable online as I though it could be the culprit of that nonsense.
I tried one last time but with the RJ45 connected and bingo picture appeared on that same screen.

Could anyone with the appropriate knowledge that I don't have unfortunately what/why this is happening ?
I've tried removing RJ45 cable when the display was working but as soon as I remove the RJ45 from the Mister that screen display switch to a no signal black screen before going to sleep.

Why is that happening with the Mister ?
Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts

[Queen Fiona]

So I have some good news and some bad news in regards to firmware upgrades.

I figured out, after a couple whole days worth of attempts using i2c on Linux and low-level tools (from which I was able to get backups), that I could access my mini monitor's ISP programming interface using a newer copy of RTDTool with a 'GFXI2C' interface option, through a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter (probably an active one, not straight through HDMI, using an Nvidia GTX 1660 SUPER).

This worked, but the Laser Bear firmware refused to flash, and when I flashed what I thought was one of the backups I made it bricked the monitor. I haven't been able to get into ISP mode since, and the monitor shows no video.

However, using some of the low-level tools after some of the botched flash (flashrom with the Realtek MST driver and https://github.com/floppes/RTD266xFlash through Python), I believe I did successfully get some data onto that chip at least once! (The latter tool was, at some point, able to clear the lock pin.) So if it can be figured out how we get this thing into ISP mode via i2c and clear the write-protect bits consistently, we can flash this firmware without expensive tools or surgery!

This does, at least, prove it's possible to flash to the firmware without lifting any pins and without the expensive hardware - at least in theory. (DisplayPort adapters are cheap, thoguh you may need an 'active' one.) I've been told unbricking these monitors isn't a difficult prospect, so hopefully getting it to recognize the monitor isn't a hard job. Worst case, I just have to buy one of the ISP tools or lift the pin.

I'll post the updated tool as soon as I can get @Doozer or someone else to post a known good backup of a firmware that works on the Chinese monitors with the ZBIT memory chip - I don't want to be responsible for any bricked monitors! (This may work better with VGA-compatible monitors too.)

EDIT: Doozer, not Deezer. Unless Doozer also runs a French music streaming service on the side.

[sonik]

I'll post the updated tool as soon as I can get @Doozer or someone else to post a known good backup of a firmware that works on the Chinese monitors with the ZBIT memory chip - I don't want to be responsible for any bricked monitors! (This may work better with VGA-compatible monitors too.)

I have a pack of firmware files that a chinese seller gave me.
It have these folders:

Code: Select all

RTD2537T-CG
RTD2775TM-CG
RTD2776B-CG
RTD2785TM-CG
RTD2795T-CG
RTD2797PM-VDL-CG
RTD2797UPM-CG

[Doozer]

If you are looking for the FW to pilot an iPad3/iPad4 screen with either an RTD2556T or RTD2550 you can try the following dumps below.

ipad_rtd2556T.bin

(512 KiB) Downloaded 611 times

ipad_rtd2550.bin

(512 KiB) Downloaded 626 times

[Doozer]

The tool from https://github.com/floppes/RTD266xFlash is producing good dumps with a RPI. The details about how to set it up is available in the readme.

Nevertheless, you will be able to flash a new binary without enabling the write operations. I think you already know this by reading you.

[Queen Fiona]

I went to the trouble of actually lifting (severing, really!) the write protect pin, so I'm not sure whether flashing would work or not without such intervention. That tool didn't seem to work for flashing until I managed to finagle the thing into ISP and brick it, but maybe it could be made to work more reliably?

I suspect the firmware originally made for the RTD2550 (the chip I have) is part of the problem in enabling ISP mode. Uncertain. Will test on Windows later now that I have a good dump to restore from.

The Linux PC I've been using has an Intel graphics chip, which could be a discrepancy in terms of flashing - even though the 2550 backup firmware flashed and restored the monitor to normal functionality. My Raspberry Pi is on router duty, so I'll have to test that later.

However, I think it might be more likely that either of the Laser Bear firmwares just isn't compatible - because when I tried to flash the RTD2556T firmware, it became 'bricked' again. Maybe that's partly the Linux tool; I might do more testing on Windows with RTDTool now that I have a working backup file and method of restoring in case I brick again.

Since we now have a working backup firmware, I'll go ahead and link the copy of RTDTool with the GFXI2C interface driver I was able to get the monitor into ISP with - Doozer said he could flash the Laser Bear firmware onto his own monitor with no trouble using the hardware ISP programmer. (My monitor is the dual HDMI board, if it matters.)

Doozer, how did you extract the firmware .bin files in the post where you talk about their contents? If we could cross-examine those files, we might figure out what's going on and how we might add one feature or another to the other chips.

EDIT: It seems like GFXI2C is fully capable of erasing the chip, but very much has trouble writing to it. It invariably fails at some point. Perhaps there's a newer version of RTDTool floating out there somewhere? I don't have any hard info on the RTD2550 like a datasheet or anything to hand, unfortunately.

It seems like there's no partitioning between user settings and system data, either; some settings have been retained between flashes at times, depending on how the flash went.

EDIT 2 Does anyone with the Laser Bear firmware or a 50 Hz compatible monitor have their EDID (including any extensions), perhaps? That might help people with PAL-based issues, if it works more generally.

[Jontox]

...
I tried one last time but with the RJ45 connected and bingo picture appeared on that same screen.

Could anyone with the appropriate knowledge that I don't have unfortunately what/why this is happening ?
I've tried removing RJ45 cable when the display was working but as soon as I remove the RJ45 from the Mister that screen display switch to a no signal black screen before going to sleep.

Why is that happening with the Mister ?
Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts

I am answering my own question after purchasing other Mini HDMI --> HDMI Cable and a CEC Less HDMI adaptor (Lindy Adaptateur HDMI Non CEC, Type A M/F).

This is happening with the following Mini HDMI --> HDMI Cable

• Silkland Mini HDMI to HDMI Cable 2M, High Speed 4K @ 60Hz HDMI 2.0, Mini HDMI Cable Supports Ethernet, 3D and ARC, Compatible with Nikon/Canon DSLR, Raspberry Pi Zero, Camcorder, Laptop and Tablet
  https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B098X3S8SV/
• Twozoh Mini HDMI to HDMI Cable 1M, 4K/60Hz High Speed HDMI to Mini HDMI Braided Cable
  https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08R9ZD3N6/

with or without CEC Less HDMI adaptor (Lindy Adaptateur HDMI Non CEC, Type A M/F)

On the other hand, and this is good news, the display is working with the below cable without RJ45 connected.
Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI Cable Type Mini HDMI to HDMI Standard 2.0 - 0.91 Meter
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B014I8UAPE/

I still don't have a technical answer but it could be due to how the cable has pins connected.
Someone more knowledgeable than me could potentialy explain us why.