My New Favourite Gadget

[akeley]

s-l300-3904436586.jpg

I know it's probably beyond obvious to most people, but posting this here anyway in case there are some other cavemen like me, who are also a bit slow with the uptake of new ideas. Up till now I've been using one of these power strips with switches to turn my MiSTer on/off, which is fine too, but I did need to get up and go around my desk, oh, what a chore that was. And this silly little thing is just so supremely convenient. Plus it can help with other stuff too (they come in packs with 3-5 separate sockets) which is great for my microcomputers which haven't got power or reset switches.

[RealLarry]

I know it's probably beyond obvious to most people, but posting this here anyway in case there are some other cavemen like me, who are also a bit slow with the uptake of new ideas. Up till now I've been using one of these power strips with switches to turn my MiSTer on/off, which is fine too, but I did need to get up and go around my desk, oh, what a chore that was. And this silly little thing is just so supremely convenient. Plus it can help with other stuff too (they come in packs with 3-5 separate sockets) which is great for my microcomputers which haven't got power or reset switches.

Similar to me, but I'm using a SonOff (S20 or L1) device for such tasks, flashed with the Tasmota firmware and my MiSTer can turn off it's own power source without a remote (In addition to other practical optionss of Tasmota).

[fierman]

Those sockets don't look too happy though

[clarkkent]

Just using this simple gadget - works as it should.

[LamerDeluxe]

Just using this simple gadget - works as it should.

Using the exact same thing, in black, works much better than the inline switch, which prevented me from powering the MT-32pi from the MiSTer (too much of a voltage drop).

[wodmarach]

Just using this simple gadget - works as it should.

*laughs in BS 1363*
Honestly though once you've got used to every socket having a switch it's hard to go somewhere without them without wincing a little at plug in...

[PistolsAtDawn]

I got a couple of Kasa brand smart plugs on sale recently. It is super convenient to be able to add remote on/off to a device.

[Malor]

Just using this simple gadget - works as it should.

Using the exact same thing, in black, works much better than the inline switch, which prevented me from powering the MT-32pi from the MiSTer (too much of a voltage drop).

Per the MT32-pi docs, the DE-10 apparently has some kind of overcurrent protection that's dropping the voltage to _just_ below the threshold detection level. There's a setting you can change that turns that off. As long as you're getting smooth sound out of the MT32-pi, it's getting enough power, even if it thinks the voltage is inadequate. It seems to be working well here.

It doesn't matter, apparently, how big a power supply you have... even if it was ten amps, the DE-10 itself simply won't transmit more than a certain amount of power.

Of course, an external remote power switch rather takes care of the main reason to power the MT32-pi through the Mister. If it's all getting powered off at the same time, dual power connections are fine. I'm running chained because I have only the digital I/O board power switch.

Oh, just in case: make sure to turn the power switch on your hat off. That will still let the signals through, while preventing any power from flowing from the MT32pi backward into the Mister.

[neogeo81]

I use the WiFi ones. Turn it on and off with Google.

[akeley]

Turn it on and off with Google.

Deary me Precisely why I went with simple remote-controlled ones, for which the only requirement is a battery.

[neogeo81]

Turn it on and off with Google.

Deary me Precisely why I went with simple remote-controlled ones, for which the only requirement is a battery.

thats why i went with WiFi ones. i dont want to have a remote for ever 3 or 5 switches. i have the switches on my phone or as mentioned with Google Home.

[LamerDeluxe]

Just using this simple gadget - works as it should.

Using the exact same thing, in black, works much better than the inline switch, which prevented me from powering the MT-32pi from the MiSTer (too much of a voltage drop).

Per the MT32-pi docs, the DE-10 apparently has some kind of overcurrent protection that's dropping the voltage to _just_ below the threshold detection level. There's a setting you can change that turns that off. As long as you're getting smooth sound out of the MT32-pi, it's getting enough power, even if it thinks the voltage is inadequate. It seems to be working well here.

Interesting, I didn't know there was a setting for that. I wonder if it wouldn't be risky to turn that off.

It doesn't matter, apparently, how big a power supply you have... even if it was ten amps, the DE-10 itself simply won't transmit more than a certain amount of power.

True, mine is a bit overpowered. So far it seems to work fine for everything I want to attach to it.

Of course, an external remote power switch rather takes care of the main reason to power the MT32-pi through the Mister. If it's all getting powered off at the same time, dual power connections are fine. I'm running chained because I have only the digital I/O board power switch.

I'm using the analog board, so this solution works well for me.

Oh, just in case: make sure to turn the power switch on your hat off. That will still let the signals through, while preventing any power from flowing from the MT32pi backward into the Mister.

Good tip, I always make sure to have that set correctly.

[Malor]

They do say in the MT32-pi docs that turning off that protection could potentially cause overheating on the Pi, and that you should definitely put heatsinks on it. If you've got a beefy supply on the Mister, it's probably okay, but if it's inadequate, it could be dangerous.

The whole thing works just fine with a secondary power source for the Pi. Just make sure to turn the power switch off on the interface/hat board, so that power doesn't go backward from the Pi to the Mister.

I may pick up a remote A/C switch, like the ones linked above, and go to multi-power source instead, since that's absolutely safe, where disabling under-power protection on the Pi might potentially be a problem.