9.7" iPad Retina Screen Perfect for MiSTer, $60 Fully Assembled 😄

[Grumpy-Old-Gamer]

But aren't the USB hubs powered directly from the power supply, whether via a y splitter or a jumper piece that is what actually delivers power from the hub to the DE10-nano?

If you route the power through the Mister, the most you can supply to the whole stack is about 4A, because that's all the DE-10 will transmit across the board. It has overvoltage and overcurrent protection, so it simply won't transmit more than that. And there's a noticeable voltage drop on the other side of the board, enough to set off a low-power alert on the MT32-Pi unless you disable it.

If you use a Y cable, and plug in both to the Mister (or the digital I/O board if you have one), and to the barrel jack on the USB board, then the Mister will take what it needs, less than 2A for the DE-10, I/O board, and MT32-Pi. The USB hub, and its attached devices, will then pull as much as it wants through the power cable into its barrel jack. A split cable will transmit a lot more current to the USB board than the Mister will.

The downside to the split cable is that the power switch on the digital I/O board, if you have one, won't power off the whole stack; the USB board will still be getting power. Early DE-10s would then take power back up through the USB connection and remain powered, but current models don't do that anymore. So if you want to power off everything at once, you'll need an inline switch upstream of the Y split. Doing it on the A/C side of the power supply is less susceptible to poor switch quality.

[Malor]

You didn't add anything of your own there, Grumpy. Were you intending to just repeat me, or were you trying to correct something I said?

[thisisamigaspeaking]

Most of the standard Mister hubs pull power from the Mister, through the USB U-connector. (I've read about one board that uses some kind of metal feet instead, touching the traces on the DE-10, but that sounds poorly designed.) I believe the standard design also has a barrel plug for auxiliary input, so you have the option of routing the power around the DE-10 instead of going through it.

This is less convenient, at least if you have a digital I/O board, because then the power switch on the board is no longer fully functional. When you route the power through the I/O board, then to the Mister, and then to the USB hub, its single switch shuts everything down. If you're plugging the USB board in on a separate lead, then you need a separate power switch.

I don't actually have a standard USB hub to look at, I'm using a powered USB switchbox instead. But I'm pretty sure that's how they work.

My mistake, that's very strange, I saw that jumper (U) piece in pictures but I didn't realize it was USB (obvious now that there needs to be some connector for that though). For some reason I thought that was running 5V (non-USB) from the hub to the DE10-nano's barrel connector.

How and why does the DE10-nano deliver more than 500mA over that micro USB port? Seems like using the Y splitter for power is almost mandatory?

My system has a standard USB hub in it, it came with the Checkmate Mini case (already installed). It is using a Y splitter.

[Malor]

I'm not actually sure on the internal details of the hub. The Mister's port may indeed provide only 500ma, but I was under the impression it was more. All I know for sure is that there's no point in hooking up more than 4A to the main DE-10 supply; anything more is certainly wasted, unless you have a splitter to haul the extra amperage down to the hub. It probably can't even use four full amps.

Many USB devices don't each need 500ma, so it's quite possible to hook up keyboard/mouse/joystick and get along just fine on DE-10 power. But the universal advice, if things aren't working right, is to get a 4A supply, and run a splitter, so your setup ends up being quite common. You just need a switch upstream of the splitter, and it's best to do the switch on the AC side, because so many inline DC switches are built like crap. This also renders the power switch on the digital I/O board pointless.

[KnuckleheadFlow]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003762212340.html
We'll see as it's also in the mail.

Any update ?

Sorry, forgot to update. It's just ever so slightly smaller than the screen. Vertically about 1-2mm and horizontally about 3-4mm. I messed up a bit with the application, as you can see below. I should have centered it horizontally or pushed it further to the right. With a bit more care I could eliminate about half of that gap, or almost all of it if I line it up like I did the left side. Vertically it's centered pretty well.

IMG_2879.jpg (78.9 KiB) Viewed 160175 times

How noticeable it is depends on the game's UI. With Galaga for example it goes across about half way through the score text at the top. It's more noticeable in tate/vert orientation which I guessed would be the case. So I wanted to place the gap on the "bottom" and I put it more to the left, but I probably had the thing upside down. Can't recall really noticing it with horizontal games at all.

Ultimately I do prefer to have it on since I'm often lugging the screen around carelessly and the bare screen looks pretty scratchable to me. And the glass gives it a "correct" sheen to me. Since I also couldn't get one corner to stick on, (at least I didn't get any dust under it) so I ordered and received a new one.
Haven't applied it yet, because all these faults aren't that noticeable during play and I'm nervous about screwing up again lol. I think taking the screen out of the frame completely will help. Both for lining it up right and because pressing it down with the foam blocks backing the screen absorbed a lot of the pressure and I think helped keep that one corner from sticking properly.

I bought a screen protector for ipad mini 4 from here.
It has the right vertical size to be put inside the metal case, but I will have to cut the part with the hole. I didn't do yet, but I suppose it will work, I just hope I won't break it. I'll be using a glass cutter.

Did you end up trying this? Cutting a larger one down is something I also considered but figured you can't cut tempered glass. But then again these protectors aren't really the tempered glass we're familiar with (if they're tempered some other way at all) since they don't shatter when broken and form pretty standard looking glass cracks.

[Bernouilli]

No, I didn't succeed. In fact I made a mistake in my previous message, I ordered a glass for an iPad Air 4, and there is no hole in the glass.
However I didn't manage to cut the glass, I used a glass cutter like this :
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/c1e066 ... b7d67.jpeg

But the glass is too fragile, you cannot press the cutter on it without breaking it; after it broke, I tried several times with different pressures but nothing worked;

I think I should try with a pen rather than a wheel. Some thing like
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuX9IVX

[thisisamigaspeaking]

No, I didn't succeed. In fact I made a mistake in my previous message, I ordered a glass for an iPad Air 4, and there is no hole in the glass.
However I didn't manage to cut the glass, I used a glass cutter like this :
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/c1e066 ... b7d67.jpeg

But the glass is too fragile, you cannot press the cutter on it without breaking it; after it broke, I tried several times with different pressures but nothing worked;

I think I should try with a pen rather than a wheel. Some thing like
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuX9IVX

I think tempered glass is only cut with lasers. A regular type of glass cutter will most likely not work.

[chunky_tesco]

i've seen a post on the MiSTer group on Facebook that the VGA version introduces more lag, so the mini hdmi version is the preferred one. Is this true?

[limi]

At that point, you are using the display’s analog to digital converter/scaler, so that’s very likely. If you have a flat panel display (even with an analog input), always use the digital one to avoid that. The HDMI version is also thinner than the VGA version, which is why I generally recommend against the VGA version unless you plan to also use it with e.g. a retro PC or something like a Dreamcast that has VGA out.

[chunky_tesco]

Ah I see, i was thinking about getting the VGA one, as my current setup is using the analog VGA out to a Phillips CM8833 Mk II. I use to have a 2007 Samsung LCD with S-Video, Scart and VGA, an using a CD32 or Amiga with analog always felt a bit off.

[repente]

Here you have my project finally finished thanks to the screen of disharmony ....
(In the end, I used the one with light leaks, I was too lazy to buy another one and take the risk again).

viewtopic.php?p=68398#p68398

[thisisamigaspeaking]

Here you have my project finally finished thanks to the screen of disharmony ....
(In the end, I used the one with light leaks, I was too lazy to buy another one and take the risk again).

viewtopic.php?p=68398#p68398

Very nice.

[jhkeller]

Tried turning HDR on in the menu and now I've got a black screen. Anyone run into something similar and come back from it? Through unplugging/re-plugging I can get the no connection/entering power save mode pop up, but can't get into the OSD.

Found a previous poster who it sounded like was able to navigate the OSD somehow after this, but I haven't been able to replicate whatever they did.

[jca]

SSH into MISTer and undo the HDR setting.

[jhkeller]

SSH into MISTer and undo the HDR setting.

Ahh, sorry this a setting on the panel itself.

[jca]

Did you try by unplugging the video cable, powering the screen and trying to activate the OSD?

[jhkeller]

Yeah, unfortunately it shows me a "no connection/entering power save mode" message and turns off, but doesn't respond to any of the buttons. Thank you for the assistance though, I'll keep messing with it!

[Osprey]

I've also acquired one of those screens. Unfortunately you cannot enter the menu when the display doesn't detect any signal. So you will need a signal, even if the screen cannot display it (out of range, wrong frequency / resolution).

[Missus]

I finally got the two screens I ordered.

One uses the dual mini HDMI and the other is USB-c with Mini-HDMI. They are amazing little screens!

A couple of things about the USB-c model:

My laptop will power and display a picture from one USB-c cable, great for a portable or second screen.
Additionally, there are two usb-c ports, while one is marked as a charging only port, I can confirm you will get video from either port!

On the dual Mini-HDMI model you can power it with a barrel adapter (clunky) or 5v micro USB.

In an effort to pretty the cabling, I found the following adapters fit and work really well. The mini-HDMI and micro-usb adapters are suitable and the proper orientation for both boards:

Micro USB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YRHTFLQ
USB-C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG3XGN6N
Mini-HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NBV8FB9

Hope this helps someone!

[Missus]

I also noticed some aliexpress sellers offering a touchscreen model. I dont need the touch capability but would be perfect for protecting the bare lcd panel.

I found and ordered this:
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/2255800615257285.html

Will report back!

[serge85]

Can anyone share the MiSTer_alt_1.ini from atrac17?

Link is down

[Lightwave]

Can anyone share the MiSTer_alt_1.ini from atrac17?

Link is down

You can still find them here:
https://github.com/atrac17/Integer_Video_Modes/

However you can pretty much replicate this for the iPad screen now using video_mode=13 plus one of the 2 new vscale modes (vscale_mode=4 or vscale_mode=5), rendering these modelines not strictly necessary anymore.

[PistolsAtDawn]

I finally got the two screens I ordered.

One uses the dual mini HDMI and the other is USB-c with Mini-HDMI. They are amazing little screens!

A couple of things about the USB-c model:

My laptop will power and display a picture from one USB-c cable, great for a portable or second screen.
Additionally, there are two usb-c ports, while one is marked as a charging only port, I can confirm you will get video from either port!

On the dual Mini-HDMI model you can power it with a barrel adapter (clunky) or 5v micro USB.

In an effort to pretty the cabling, I found the following adapters fit and work really well. The mini-HDMI and micro-usb adapters are suitable and the proper orientation for both boards:

Micro USB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YRHTFLQ
USB-C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG3XGN6N
Mini-HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NBV8FB9

Hope this helps someone!

Can you please tell me if a standard 5v USB port with a USB-A to C cable is capable of powering that screen? If so, I think I'm going to order that one.

Thank you in advance!

[Missus]

Can you please tell me if a standard 5v USB port with a USB-A to C cable is capable of powering that screen? If so, I think I'm going to order that one.

Thank you in advance!

Yes you can power the screen from either port as you describe. I tested A-C, and A-micro while Passing HDMI input and both worked as expected.

I tend to agree that the usb-c/miniHDMI model is the one to get. Unless you -really- need dual miniHDMI, the versatility of both usb-c and hdmi option is the way to go.

[PistolsAtDawn]

Can you please tell me if a standard 5v USB port with a USB-A to C cable is capable of powering that screen? If so, I think I'm going to order that one.

Thank you in advance!

Yes you can power the screen from either port as you describe. I tested A-C, and A-micro while Passing HDMI input and both worked as expected.

I tend to agree that the usb-c/miniHDMI model is the one to get. Unless you -really- need dual miniHDMI, the versatility of both usb-c and hdmi option is the way to go.

Excellent! I appreciate it!

[offset]

Received my monitor yesterday, works great!

Ordered the pre-built USB-C (type c input in the description) version from here (GIVIFENI Store). There are multiple versions available so choose carefully which inputs you want - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801503431249.html

Thought it was defective at first as it kept flickering on and off (blanking screen) as it seems to draw more power than I expected. Connected to MiSTer usb hub and the monitor would blank on and off. Connected to my dedicated usb-c power cube and monitor works fine. Recommend dedicated power for monitor and not from the MiSTer as others have noted in this thread..

Used a high speed HDMI cable from amazon (amazon basics cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UEGY and it was able to sync at 2048x1536@60Hz (I also was able to sync at 50Hz on the C64 core in PAL mode). Didn't attempt to use the cable that came with it based on others posting in this thread.

Couldn't find the English menu using the description here (not sure if different firmware, etc). I had to use Google Translate w/ camera on each menu until I found the one that described 'Language'. I believe it was like Menu button press on the rocker switch and then down 5, 2nd option for Language. You need to keep a signal source on it to get to the Menu and make changes. I just ran a game while I made the adjustments (Neo Geo: Xeno Crisis in my case)

Attached some pictures. I have no way to test display latency but other than its a bit reflective/shiny works well for me! I'm mostly using it as a travel display to take along with me on trips.

There are 2 speakers in the case on the back, but I disabled the audio (DVI mode in the mister ini) as I use the optical TOSLINK on my digital i/o board to my bluetooth headsets. They work but they sound like cheap tiny speakers. I suppose you could also turn the volume to zero on the OSD but DVI mode seemed the easiest for me.

[Missus]

I wanted to add information about a usb-c cable that will -not- work with this screen in case others are looking for similar solutions.

This cable does provide power and turn on the display but it will not also display video:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BD6MZ51C

Do Not Buy!

[ellie]

Yeah, unfortunately it shows me a "no connection/entering power save mode" message and turns off, but doesn't respond to any of the buttons. Thank you for the assistance though, I'll keep messing with it!

Were you ever able to figure this out? I did the same thing: I was trying to get HDR going, so I turned HDR to ON in the OSD, but now nothing will display. I tried my MiSTer, Mac and Windows PCs and my Apple TV, but none of them display on it (even though my Apple TV, for example, is set to HDR).

Were you able to reset it/work through the menus without seeing? Is anyone willing to take a few photos of the OSD so that I can hopefully navigate to the HDR option (or factory reset, if there is one)?

Edit: Got it! I had another of the same two mini HDMI screens that had some power problems, but I turned it on and followed along on my HDR-disaster one.

Make sure you have an HDMI cable plugged in. Then, turn it off and then turned it back on, wait a few seconds (just to be sure it has fully booted), and press:

Menu
Up
Up
Menu
Menu

This will select the Factory Reset option, which disables HDR. From there, you’ll have to put it back in English, which can be found earlier in the thread, but just to make it easy:

Open the OSD
Down
Down
Down
Menu

This brings up the Language select screen.

Again, this is for the 2x mini HDMI model from AliExpress (it may or may not work for other models), and you’ll need to have a signal going to it (even if the screen is totally blacked out). You can check if you’re on the correct input before doing all this by unplugging the power and plugging it back in. If it does a No Signal, try moving your HDMI cable to the other input and removing/plugging back in the power. The screen should look pitch black when you do the little menu combo up top (you can be sure the screen is powered on by checking that the LED on the back is green).

Hope this helps someone, and feel free to message me/reply if you need more help/photos!

[Warren]

I finally got the two screens I ordered.

One uses the dual mini HDMI and the other is USB-c with Mini-HDMI. They are amazing little screens!

A couple of things about the USB-c model:

My laptop will power and display a picture from one USB-c cable, great for a portable or second screen.
Additionally, there are two usb-c ports, while one is marked as a charging only port, I can confirm you will get video from either port!

On the dual Mini-HDMI model you can power it with a barrel adapter (clunky) or 5v micro USB.

In an effort to pretty the cabling, I found the following adapters fit and work really well. The mini-HDMI and micro-usb adapters are suitable and the proper orientation for both boards:

Micro USB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YRHTFLQ
USB-C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG3XGN6N
Mini-HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NBV8FB9

Hope this helps someone!

Is this the AliExpress one you got that was referenced in the very start of this whole forum post? I just ordered the dual hdmi one instead of the USB C one (didn't realize the usb c one is hdmi and also usb c for power). What voltage and kind of power adapter should I get? Rather use it instead of power via micro usb. If you don't mind helping me out so I can get one for in time it gets here.

[Lightwave]

What voltage and kind of power adapter should I get? Rather use it instead of power via micro usb.

I received a power adapter with my monitor from AliExpress (2x mini-HDMI version).