Direct Video to HDMI Switch to Retrotink 4K

[baddubaddu]

Hello and sorry if this is the wrong place to post for help. I've been testing out direct video mode into a Retrotink 4K and I'm very pleased with the results. After I completed my testing, I decided to add the mister into the rest of my setup, and I'm getting some issues feeding the direct video signal into an HDMI switch. The main menu does not appear at all. I have SAM set to play after 60 seconds, and I've noticed some cores work perfectly fine, others don't work at all, and some cut in and out over and over. Does anyone else have experience using direct video into an HDMI switch? I got the MiSTer set up just how I want it now, so I'd like to try to find a solution that doesn't involve using the VGA port. Thanks!

[thorr]

The MiSTer's HDMI port's signal is unusual and many switches and adapters won't work with it. What you need to use is a passive HDMI switch that does not take a power adapter if you want the best results. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HC8B14H
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNB98HH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY7Y9PR

[baddubaddu]

Thank you, thorr, for confirming. I was reluctant to try a new switch because I spent a fortune on the one I own. Thankfully, I just watched MLiG's RT4K video, and it had the great suggestion of using the pre-scaling feature to get the exact same image quality as direct video! I simply set the MiSTer to always output 720p and set the pre-scaling to 1/3 for an image that looks completely identical.

[thorr]

Thank you, thorr, for confirming. I was reluctant to try a new switch because I spent a fortune on the one I own. Thankfully, I just watched MLiG's RT4K video, and it had the great suggestion of using the pre-scaling feature to get the exact same image quality as direct video! I simply set the MiSTer to always output 720p and set the pre-scaling to 1/3 for an image that looks completely identical.

I am not familiar with the video, but that method might be introducing some additional lag. When the MiSTer's scaler is involved, it will add some lag. Then the second scaler could add additional lag. If the second scaler can handle the downscale in real time, then it would be a decent solution. If it can't, it would be better to not use the MiSTer's scaler at all if you want to reduce the lag as much as possible. This is just my guessing based on what I think you are saying.

[baddubaddu]

Thank you, thorr, for confirming. I was reluctant to try a new switch because I spent a fortune on the one I own. Thankfully, I just watched MLiG's RT4K video, and it had the great suggestion of using the pre-scaling feature to get the exact same image quality as direct video! I simply set the MiSTer to always output 720p and set the pre-scaling to 1/3 for an image that looks completely identical.

I am not familiar with the video, but that method might be introducing some additional lag. When the MiSTer's scaler is involved, it will add some lag. Then the second scaler could add additional lag. If the second scaler can handle the downscale in real time, then it would be a decent solution. If it can't, it would be better to not use the MiSTer's scaler at all if you want to reduce the lag as much as possible. This is just my guessing based on what I think you are saying.

Is there a way to not use the MiSTer's scaler on HDMI without using direct video? I thought it was unavoidable. I'm unfamiliar with the way it outputs video digitally. Prior to getting the RT4K, I've only used my MiSTer on a CRT.

[thorr]

Is there a way to not use the MiSTer's scaler on HDMI without using direct video? I thought it was unavoidable. I'm unfamiliar with the way it outputs video digitally. Prior to getting the RT4K, I've only used my MiSTer on a CRT.

What I am suggesting is that you do use direct video. This will produce zero lag. Then scale afterwards to your display with the Retrotink 4K. Use a passive HDMI switch if you need multiple sources to connect to the Retrotink 4K.

[leovenon]

I'm using a Cheap Mechanical HDMI 2.0 Switch 2 - inputs / 1 Output and is working fine with DirectVideo. I switch between my AVR Out 2 (which all consoles are connected ) and the Mister and I don't see so much trouble in the daily basis. Just press a button if want the MiSTer to be routed.
But if you want to use MiSTer in your current HDMI Switch. Maybe you can customize your ini and set DirectVideo=1 for the cores that works fine and are updated. And DirectVideo=0 by default. The problem is that you might not know if a core
support directvideo if don't enable it again to try.

[Djiem]

The MiSTer's HDMI port's signal is unusual and many switches and adapters won't work with it. What you need to use is a passive HDMI switch that does not take a power adapter if you want the best results. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HC8B14H
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNB98HH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY7Y9PR

By any chance, you wouldn't happen to know of a 3-port passive HDMI switch? Like the one in your first link, but with 3 outputs instead of just 2? Haven't had any luck finding one of those.

The third link is 3-ports, but it's 3-in-1-out and I'm looking for 1-in-3-out.

[thorr]

The MiSTer's HDMI port's signal is unusual and many switches and adapters won't work with it. What you need to use is a passive HDMI switch that does not take a power adapter if you want the best results. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HC8B14H
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNB98HH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY7Y9PR

By any chance, you wouldn't happen to know of a 3-port passive HDMI switch? Like the one in your first link, but with 3 outputs instead of just 2? Haven't had any luck finding one of those.

The third link is 3-ports, but it's 3-in-1-out and I'm looking for 1-in-3-out.

They are reversible because they are passive. It just connects the wires. It should work the way you want.

I also have this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313602486642 "Blackbird 4K 4x1 HDMI Switch, Ultra Slim, HDR, HDCP 2.2, CEC, 4K@60Hz 33418"

[Djiem]

They are reversible because they are passive. It just connects the wires. It should work the way you want.

I also have this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313602486642 "Blackbird 4K 4x1 HDMI Switch, Ultra Slim, HDR, HDCP 2.2, CEC, 4K@60Hz 33418"

Oh, if I can just reverse that 3-in-1, I'll give that it a try then!

[Djiem]

The MiSTer's HDMI port's signal is unusual and many switches and adapters won't work with it. What you need to use is a passive HDMI switch that does not take a power adapter if you want the best results. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HC8B14H
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNB98HH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY7Y9PR

By any chance, you wouldn't happen to know of a 3-port passive HDMI switch? Like the one in your first link, but with 3 outputs instead of just 2? Haven't had any luck finding one of those.

The third link is 3-ports, but it's 3-in-1-out and I'm looking for 1-in-3-out.

They are reversible because they are passive. It just connects the wires. It should work the way you want.

I also have this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313602486642 "Blackbird 4K 4x1 HDMI Switch, Ultra Slim, HDR, HDCP 2.2, CEC, 4K@60Hz 33418"

I tried the device from the third link, and I can confirm it is not reversible. It works 3-in-1-out, but not 1-in-3-out. This means I'm back on the search.

[thorr]

I tried the device from the third link, and I can confirm it is not reversible. It works 3-in-1-out, but not 1-in-3-out. This means I'm back on the search.

Bummer. Sorry about that. Most of mine are (I guess I didn't try that one in reverse). You can probably get a couple of 2-port switches and daisy-chain them.

[Djiem]

I tried the device from the third link, and I can confirm it is not reversible. It works 3-in-1-out, but not 1-in-3-out. This means I'm back on the search.

Bummer. Sorry about that. Most of mine are (I guess I didn't try that one in reverse). You can probably get a couple of 2-port switches and daisy-chain them.

Yeah, the device in the first link is perfect for my setup because all HDMI port are on the same side. Just gonna daisy-chain two.

[thorr]

I tried the device from the third link, and I can confirm it is not reversible. It works 3-in-1-out, but not 1-in-3-out. This means I'm back on the search.

Bummer. Sorry about that. Most of mine are (I guess I didn't try that one in reverse). You can probably get a couple of 2-port switches and daisy-chain them.

Yeah, the device in the first link is perfect for my setup because all HDMI port are on the same side. Just gonna daisy-chain two.

I hope it works! Let me know for future reference.

[Djiem]

I hope it works! Let me know for future reference.

Unfortunately, it doesn't work, at least it doesn't work specifically for me.

The way my stuff is setup now is:

MiSTer goes to Input of Switch #1.

Switch #1 Output 1 = RT4k which goes to my LG C1.
Switch #1 Output 2 = Switch #2 Input

Switch #2 Output 1 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Component
Switch #2 Output 2 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Composite

With this setup, the RT4k/LG C1 works, the Component works, but not Composite. Composite has the picture blinking, kinda like a NES in the 80s when the cartridge's connection wasn't right.

Perhaps all this daisy chaining via passive switches and going through all those passive converters has weakened the signal, or something. I don't see why it would do that, but I'm not an expert in that field.

[thorr]

I hope it works! Let me know for future reference.

Unfortunately, it doesn't work, at least it doesn't work specifically for me.

The way my stuff is setup now is:

MiSTer goes to Input of Switch #1.

Switch #1 Output 1 = RT4k which goes to my LG C1.
Switch #1 Output 2 = Switch #2 Input

Switch #2 Output 1 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Component
Switch #2 Output 2 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Composite

With this setup, the RT4k/LG C1 works, the Component works, but not Composite. Composite has the picture blinking, kinda like a NES in the 80s when the cartridge's connection wasn't right.

Perhaps all this daisy chaining via passive switches and going through all those passive converters has weakened the signal, or something. I don't see why it would do that, but I'm not an expert in that field.

Interesting. If you use just one switch with Component and Composite removing the RT4k, does Composite work then? Also try swapping the two switches (maybe one is bad), or put Composite on the first layer and the RT4k and Component on the second layer.

[Djiem]

I hope it works! Let me know for future reference.

Unfortunately, it doesn't work, at least it doesn't work specifically for me.

The way my stuff is setup now is:

MiSTer goes to Input of Switch #1.

Switch #1 Output 1 = RT4k which goes to my LG C1.
Switch #1 Output 2 = Switch #2 Input

Switch #2 Output 1 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Component
Switch #2 Output 2 = CRT via HDMI>VGA>Composite

With this setup, the RT4k/LG C1 works, the Component works, but not Composite. Composite has the picture blinking, kinda like a NES in the 80s when the cartridge's connection wasn't right.

Perhaps all this daisy chaining via passive switches and going through all those passive converters has weakened the signal, or something. I don't see why it would do that, but I'm not an expert in that field.

Interesting. If you use just one switch with Component and Composite removing the RT4k, does Composite work then? Also try swapping the two switches (maybe one is bad), or put Composite on the first layer and the RT4k and Component on the second layer.

Yep, that worked! Composite on first layer, RT4k and Component on second layer is functional. For some reason, Composite couldn't withstand 2 switches, but both RT4k and Composite can, with no loss of quality (that I can discern).

[thorr]

Yep, that worked! Composite on first layer, RT4k and Component on second layer is functional. For some reason, Composite couldn't withstand 2 switches, but both RT4k and Composite can, with no loss of quality (that I can discern).

Great! I am glad there was a way to make it work.