MiSTer FPGA Forum

Just finished my build, and am super happy with the results. Only issue I had was that the internal USB header I used for the HDD (connecting to the headers that go to the back ports) was tall enough that it collided with the case. I was able to remove the pins, trim some of the plastic off the top of the header, reinsert the pins, and now it fits like a dream.


Don't know if my header was just extra long or what. Probably could have just trimmed around the red wire, as it was just that corner of the case colliding. But it was enough to prevent the lid from seating until it was trimmed down. So if anyone else has an issue where it doesn't seat right, check that header and see if it's hitting.

alessiman wrote: ↑Tue Dec 21, 2021 8:38 pm

multisystem wrote: ↑Thu Dec 09, 2021 10:10 am

Flashback wrote: ↑Thu Dec 09, 2021 5:26 am

Hmmm never received an email. Order said expected to ship end of November. I'll shoot them an email to see if there is a status thanks.

Do check with The Retro Group. They are shipping as fast as possible, all the board only shipments went out in just a few days. If you ordered a cased system or deluxe kit it will most probably depend slightly on the choice of case / colour (color) you selected - the 3D prints were being made in batches of colour / style in weekly batch change-overs. Trying to keep everyone happy, but making the most efficient use of the 3D printers.

Hi Richard,

I received my mulitsystem on Monday (Sunday UK Time) and have documented a number of issues with it

I've reported these with RMC Support the same day i received my package and haven't even had an acknowledgement of receipt. Appreciate its coming up to Xmas you are are all no doubt busy with to a deserved shutdown, but it's not a great experience i have to say.

Update 1: Well i have joined the RMC Patreon and now on Discord so it looks like Neils on holidays. Which might explain the lack of response

Update 2: Looks like like original email went to Junk but Dave from the RMC Store has contacted me now so all good!

Ok, Keep me updated too, and I will assist if you need anything.

Best Regards,

Richard.

It's unfortunate this didn't exist before I bought all the official MiSTER add-ons (USB hub, RTC, analog output board, and the 128MB ram card). If it did, I would have grabbed this one!. It's nice having everything on one board. However, the price seems a little high in my opinion. It's probably due to the fact that I already have all the add-ons and that the British Pound is worth more than the US Dollar. That makes it so it's not affordable to me. I wish you the best of luck and much success with this product! You have earned it. Happy New Year!

leejsmith wrote: ↑Wed Dec 22, 2021 12:00 pm HI All, I just uploaded my new wedge case to be used with the multisystem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEKKvxdV0tk

some pictures with my 1084s

that case is beautiful - great job!

How do I get composite or RF video out?

Quasi_stomach wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:01 am How do I get composite or RF video out?

how about a scart to rca?

something like:


of course, the form factor of the scart head innards could be an issue with something like this due to the inclusion of the directional switch and the small form factor of the mms, but nothing a little research wouldn't solve...

don't forget about the VGA output either - you could also use an adapter on there to take a composite signal from the board.

threads such as viewtopic.php?f=29&t=1068 will also give you some ideas - there's a few ways of doing it.

MiSTer by default can only provide RGB or component (YPbPr) analog output. If you need a composite analog signal, you need an external converter. Adapters like the one above simply map the Scart pins to RCA. They will not work with MiSTer, as the composite pin will only carry the sync signal.

Quasi_stomach wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:01 am How do I get composite or RF video out?

As mapf just said, you need a converter. I can recommend this adapter which others here have pointed me towards, BUT I don't know if the Multisystem outputs 5v on pin 9 of the VGA port on the back. Maybe they can chime in. The IO board I've got, you need to set the jumper on the board to get the below adapter to work.

https://www.antoniovillena.es/store/pro ... o-adapter/

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm MiSTer by default can only provide RGB or component (YPbPr) analog output. If you need a composite analog signal, you need an external converter. Adapters like the one above simply map the Scart pins to RCA. They will not work with MiSTer, as the composite pin will only carry the sync signal.

Thanks for the input. I was really hoping there was another option. I'm already into this project for so much money at this point, I can't possibly justify to my wife spending another $50 for an adapter. Is there something simple I can build? I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

Thanks for your help!

There is no composite signal on the MiSTer. You might consider modding your CRT for RGB input instead, if that is an option for you. We Europeans are lucky that even the crappiest cheap no-name TV from the late 80s onward had SCART connectors with RGB input.

Quasi_stomach wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 1:32 am

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm MiSTer by default can only provide RGB or component (YPbPr) analog output. If you need a composite analog signal, you need an external converter. Adapters like the one above simply map the Scart pins to RCA. They will not work with MiSTer, as the composite pin will only carry the sync signal.

Thanks for the input. I was really hoping there was another option. I'm already into this project for so much money at this point, I can't possibly justify to my wife spending another $50 for an adapter. Is there something simple I can build? I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

Thanks for your help!

Hate to break it to you but you are going to need Snac adaptors to use a lightgun.

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

You can do component out from an IO board, as long as your US CRT is new enough to have those. I ran mine like this for a long time on a consumer Sony set.

Snac Adaptors are mostly cheap...

FPGA64 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 11:43 am

Quasi_stomach wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 1:32 am

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm MiSTer by default can only provide RGB or component (YPbPr) analog output. If you need a composite analog signal, you need an external converter. Adapters like the one above simply map the Scart pins to RCA. They will not work with MiSTer, as the composite pin will only carry the sync signal.

Thanks for the input. I was really hoping there was another option. I'm already into this project for so much money at this point, I can't possibly justify to my wife spending another $50 for an adapter. Is there something simple I can build? I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

Thanks for your help!

Hate to break it to you but you are going to need Snac adaptors to use a lightgun.

I have no desire to do SNAC unless I can get it working on a CRT, but if I can, I certainly would look at SNAC adapters for the systems that I have light guns for.

mapf wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 8:40 am There is no composite signal on the MiSTer. You might consider modding your CRT for RGB input instead, if that is an option for you. We Europeans are lucky that even the crappiest cheap no-name TV from the late 80s onward had SCART connectors with RGB input.

You guys really are lucky!

I have thought about trying the RGB mode, but as comfortable as I may be trying to build my own adapter, I have been pretty scared to do work on the inside of a CRT. I also tend to take a long time to complete any project and I will forget where to plug in anything I had to unplug

german_user wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 2:49 pm Snac Adaptors are mostly cheap...

Are there any instructions or pcb files (gerber, etc) for creating my own SNAC adapters?

Sigismond0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 2:13 pm

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

You can do component out from an IO board, as long as your US CRT is new enough to have those. I ran mine like this for a long time on a consumer Sony set.

Thanks! I'll keep an eye out for a CRT with Component inputs. There was one for free locally on Facebook marketplace, but it was snapped up very quickly.

Working on an i2c2oled remix of the front panel. Fit test looks good, but can't test the masking until my RTC board comes in. I'll make the files available to anyone that wants them to test early though. Front mount is an easier print overall--if you print in the original file's recommended orientation, no support is needed. I prefer to print mine in the "natural" orientation for consistency with the rest of the case, but that requires a lot of support on both styles.

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/12 ... dust-cover

I finished building it. I made a video aswell!
Check it out!

Sigismond0 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 5:27 pm Working on an i2c2oled remix of the front panel. Fit test looks good, but can't test the masking until my RTC board comes in.
…

Nice work!
Do you need the RTC for the electrical connection?
Antonio Villena left PCB Gerber Files in the i2c2oled Thread for RTC-less connection.
See viewtopic.php?p=26131#p26131

Elrinth wrote: ↑Wed Jan 19, 2022 2:40 am I finished building it. I made a video aswell!
Check it out!

great video, music was a little off putting though

bazza_12 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 23, 2022 9:50 am

Elrinth wrote: ↑Wed Jan 19, 2022 2:40 am I finished building it. I made a video aswell!
Check it out!

great video, music was a little off putting though

Thank you for the feedback!
I'll be more careful with the background music selection and music levels next time.

ps. Tried the PS1 core this morning (the 2022-01-23) and now we got audio even without dual ram! It's not perfect, but it actually works. Very very impressive stuff!

might just be my sensitive ears.. the PS1 core is coming along so quickly now.. it's amazing..

venice wrote: ↑Sat Jan 22, 2022 2:59 pm Nice work!
Do you need the RTC for the electrical connection?
Antonio Villena left PCB Gerber Files in the i2c2oled Thread for RTC-less connection.
See viewtopic.php?p=26131#p26131

Between getting an RTC or getting a PCB and build my own I2C adapter, it's easier to just get the RTC and leave less room for me to botch it. I ordered one of Antonio's RTC boards to make it as easy as possible, I'm not a solder wizard.

I filled up my 128GB SD card and created a 256GB card so I could add A0486. Everything was working fine for 24 hours and today when I turned it on, I get no power lights and no sync. It is powered on...I can see the lights on the board glowing, but the sync lights above the red button do not light up. I thought maybe my new card was bad so put in the old 128GB card that was working fine and same thing. Help? Anyone else experience this or know what I might do?

STEVEM653 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 2:27 pm ...
I get no power lights and no sync. It is powered on...I can see the lights on the board glowing ...

Which LEDs are on?

The blue light on the DE10 Nano and the red light on the digital audio jack on the Multisystem board.

A while back I had the same problem: one day, after 2 years of use without any problem, I turned on my MISTer and nothing except the blue power LED of the DE10-nano on.
What I did:
I wiggled each dip switch 4 times (in order to have them back to their original position), powered back the DE10-nano and everything went back to normal.

Sigismond0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 2:13 pm

mapf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:08 pm I was hoping that there was a signal somewhere that I could tap into that would work on an American CRT TV. It doesn't have to be pretty (Composite was pretty ugly by today's standards), but I just want to see this work on a CRT (both to compare to original hardware, and to see if I can get light guns working).

You can do component out from an IO board, as long as your US CRT is new enough to have those. I ran mine like this for a long time on a consumer Sony set.

I found a TV with component inputs. How do I get component out from the Mister Multisystem?

Quasi_stomach wrote: ↑Tue Jan 25, 2022 12:11 am I found a TV with component inputs. How do I get component out from the Mister Multisystem?

Same as any other MiSTer setup. You'll need a cable like this. In your mister.ini file, set "ypbpr=1". Then just make sure you have the SOG switch on the back of the Multisystem set, and that should be all there is to it.