The online community for MiSTer FPGA enthusiasts
https://misterfpga.org/
It's been running for hours now... and no drops, at least on this core! (Which did have some trouble in the past.) Thanks for your suggestion!
worked perfect, thank you very much!FoxbatStargazer wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 5:45 am In the ini set vscale_mode=0. In the core menu pick aspect ratio=full, and make sure scale option is normal if available (no v-integer etc.)
I tried a third generic brand cable without any luck and I'll attempt the bluerigger one next but the minimum length is 6ft. Should I worry about cable length?
I feel like I'm running out of options but I still like what I have even if I'm stuck at 1350p my thing still handles PAL and 640x480
EDIT: to follow up, I noticed my screen develops vertical bar artifacts when I run 240p test suite's lag test that persist temporarily. I'm not sure if the driver board (it's got an RT555T iirc) or screen is misbehaving but I am tempted to swap the board out on it and try my luck again (maybe it's smarter for me to just get an oled computer monitor instead?). For those that must have that pixel perfect 4:3 aspect ratio I guess a laserbear setup is less of a gamble
I've bought the laserbear LCD vesa mountable case, now I'm looking for a monitor stand which can rotate. Any recommend one.
I think I broke my mister .ini configuration. iPad retina screen was working fine, but now when connected to mister, it display "no signal" (I tried different sources it is working, also mister is working with other displays). The only thing I did is running regular update_all script once a week.
And also I can not get the mister to run a QHD LCD display with 2560 X 1440 resolution, in the .ini file I set it to 2560 X 1440 but it is running at 1920x1080.
Edit: I used the same hdmi cable and connected iPad display to my pc, it runs at full resolution. Cables are OK, screen OK, swapped a new SD cad. But no display 
Megahurtz wrote: ↑Sun Oct 23, 2022 3:07 pmAnybody else noticing image retention with this setup? Anything with rapid flickering in static locations seems to trigger it. I think the 240p test suite had some tests that could cause it. I also came across it for the first time in a game while playing TMNT IV on SNES yesterday. The final stage during the Krang boss fight has a portrait of Shredder in the background that flickers extremely quickly, but the screen doesn't scroll at all so it remains in the same position for several minutes.
I'm using the Laserbear driver with the Freesync firmware if it makes any difference.
Mine has it too. The flickering healthcare in vsav causes it for me.
KnuckleheadFlow wrote: ↑Fri Nov 11, 2022 3:19 amMy screen (2x mini hdmi) is in the mail, can't wait. Reading the thread I thought someone mentioned not being able to find a glass screen protector. I found this one, seems it should fit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003762212340.html
We'll see as it's also in the mail.
Any update ?
Very keen on ordering one... i see that there are three options - 2x hdmi, vga/hdmi and usbC/hdmi - has anyone ordered the usbC/hdmi version? Different driver board again?
I bought a version with vga/hdmi from here :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001689746001.html
The driver board was V.M56VDA and the display woudn't diplay a 50Hz signal, neither in vga nor in hdmi.
I tried to flash the board (using a rpi4) with some of the firmware posted in this thread but with no luck. I managed to flash back the same firmware that I downloaded from the board. So I suppose that the firmwares I tried aren't for this board.
I then bought another driver board from here :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32765195617.html
This one is a RTD2556_eDP_WS_R10.2 and it does support 50hz signal, in vga and hdmi
I didn't try to flash this one.
image on vga :
image on vga using the scandoubler :
Koolvin wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 1:47 pmKnuckleheadFlow wrote: ↑Fri Nov 11, 2022 3:19 amMy screen (2x mini hdmi) is in the mail, can't wait. Reading the thread I thought someone mentioned not being able to find a glass screen protector. I found this one, seems it should fit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003762212340.html
We'll see as it's also in the mail.
Any update ?
I bought a screen protector for ipad mini 4 from here.
It has the right vertical size to be put inside the metal case, but I will have to cut the part with the hole. I didn't do yet, but I suppose it will work, I just hope I won't break it. I'll be using a glass cutter.
The screen draws 5 volts over usb. Is it really save to supply that through the mister?
I have these ports that get 5v straight from the DC input. I am not sure if powering the screen and the mister + peripherals is safe.
how are you sure 4A is enough?
The screen doesn't draw 5V, 5V is how much that is pushed by the PSU. The screen will draw some amount of amps @ 5V.
Is this something you have tried yet or are you just speculating about what you need to get this set up? If you want to power the screen separately go ahead and do so. Limi said it worked with a 2A power supply for the MiSTer + USB hub + screen so I would assume that's how he is "sure" 4A is enough.
If you want to figure it out exactly https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Amperage
when I use video_mode 13 and vsync_mode 2. The screen keeps losing signal and regaining it. Do I need a different HDMI cable?
video_mode 12 and vsync_mode 0 works fine, even at 50hz.
I have 2x mini hdmi
seems like it only happens on same cores like cps2 and psx.
anyone know why some cores dont work at video_mode 13 and vsync_mode 2?
donpatchi at video_mode 13 and vsync_mode 2 works at 58hz!
This is a known problem. It happens for me on most of the jotego arcade cores.
There's reports out there of it working and some with the same problems. They say that those boards from china are crap.
But then I've seen reports from users with Laserbear displays having the same problem.
I've spent a lot of time trying to get it work then gave up. Better to use a lower resolution.
One thing that helped during my tests was setting mister to dvi mode. You can try this. But dvi mode won't have audio output.
thisisamigaspeaking wrote: ↑Mon Jan 09, 2023 3:22 amThe screen doesn't draw 5V, 5V is how much that is pushed by the PSU. The screen will draw some amount of amps @ 5V.
Is this something you have tried yet or are you just speculating about what you need to get this set up? If you want to power the screen separately go ahead and do so. Limi said it worked with a 2A power supply for the MiSTer + USB hub + screen so I would assume that's how he is "sure" 4A is enough.
If you want to figure it out exactly https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Amperage
No, I got scolded in the discord that this would fry your mister. The screen over USB takes some amps @ 5v. The screen can be powered by a 5v 2a phone charger. the mister can be powered by a 5v 2a psu. The power only ports on my mister output 5v straight from the psu line without going through the mister. So since both work fine with 2a psu's. powering both with a 4a psu should be fine no?
Wall warts are pretty cheap. I would reserve 4A for your Mister plus any downstream devices you may acquire, and then budget another 2A for the screen. Use either a separate 2A supply, or a Y connector on a 6A supply.
The Mister has overcurrent/overvoltage protection, so it won't transmit more than a certain amount of total power across the board to downstream peripherals. There's no point to giving it more than 4A directly, as it won't accept any more than that.
Powering your screen from the Mister is likely to eat into that budget substantially. Going around it is probably safest, to leave your other expansion options open. Give the Mister the 4A it can handle, and then bypass it to deliver the remaining 2A for the screen.
edit to add: The Mister will only take as much power as it needs. The bare board runs okay on 2A, but when you're powering an I/O board, a hub, downstream USB devices, and (potentially) an MT32-Pi, it needs more. Giving it a 4A supply now should let you add whatever you want later. It won't actually use the full 4A unless you hang a lot of stuff off it.
Malor wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 2:45 amWall warts are pretty cheap. I would reserve 4A for your Mister plus any downstream devices you may acquire, and then budget another 2A for the screen. Use either a separate 2A supply, or a Y connector on a 6A supply.
The Mister has overcurrent/overvoltage protection, so it won't transmit more than a certain amount of total power across the board to downstream peripherals. There's no point to giving it more than 4A directly, as it won't accept any more than that.
Powering your screen from the Mister is likely to eat into that budget substantially. Going around it is probably safest, to leave your other expansion options open. Give the Mister the 4A it can handle, and then bypass it to deliver the remaining 2A for the screen.
edit to add: The Mister will only take as much power as it needs. The bare board runs okay on 2A, but when you're powering an I/O board, a hub, downstream USB devices, and (potentially) an MT32-Pi, it needs more. Giving it a 4A supply now should let you add whatever you want later. It won't actually use the full 4A unless you hang a lot of stuff off it.
But aren't the USB hubs powered directly from the power supply, whether via a y splitter or a jumper piece that is what actually delivers power from the hub to the DE10-nano?
Don't do it. I tried that and it fried my USB hub.
Aren't these super dim if you run them from 5v instead of 12v. Not sure why you would want to power it with usb when you lose so much by not using the 12v port.
thisisamigaspeaking wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:56 amBut aren't the USB hubs powered directly from the power supply, whether via a y splitter or a jumper piece that is what actually delivers power from the hub to the DE10-nano?
If you route the power through the Mister, the most you can supply to the whole stack is about 4A, because that's all the DE-10 will transmit across the board. It has overvoltage and overcurrent protection, so it simply won't transmit more than that. And there's a noticeable voltage drop on the other side of the board, enough to set off a low-power alert on the MT32-Pi unless you disable it.
If you use a Y cable, and plug in both to the Mister (or the digital I/O board if you have one), and to the barrel jack on the USB board, then the Mister will take what it needs, less than 2A for the DE-10, I/O board, and MT32-Pi. The USB hub, and its attached devices, will then pull as much as it wants through the power cable into its barrel jack. A split cable will transmit a lot more current to the USB board than the Mister will.
The downside to the split cable is that the power switch on the digital I/O board, if you have one, won't power off the whole stack; the USB board will still be getting power. Early DE-10s would then take power back up through the USB connection and remain powered, but current models don't do that anymore. So if you want to power off everything at once, you'll need an inline switch upstream of the Y split. Doing it on the A/C side of the power supply is less susceptible to poor switch quality.
To be fair, the Pi doesn't really run at 5V as advertised...it's a not-so-secret secret that their boards actually look for 5.35V and undervolt at just under 5, their branded power supplies overvolt to compensate (and third-party generally do not, which is why you only see Pi owners complaining about non-OEM supplies).
Mine is perfectly bright at 5v, no noticeable difference from the 12v included adapter (I'm powering directly from a quality 5v multi-charger though, not a port on a USB hub). This is the Aliexpress 2x HDMI version.
Malor wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:07 pmthisisamigaspeaking wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:56 amBut aren't the USB hubs powered directly from the power supply, whether via a y splitter or a jumper piece that is what actually delivers power from the hub to the DE10-nano?
If you route the power through the Mister, the most you can supply to the whole stack is about 4A, because that's all the DE-10 will transmit across the board. It has overvoltage and overcurrent protection, so it simply won't transmit more than that. And there's a noticeable voltage drop on the other side of the board, enough to set off a low-power alert on the MT32-Pi unless you disable it.
If you use a Y cable, and plug in both to the Mister (or the digital I/O board if you have one), and to the barrel jack on the USB board, then the Mister will take what it needs, less than 2A for the DE-10, I/O board, and MT32-Pi. The USB hub, and its attached devices, will then pull as much as it wants through the power cable into its barrel jack. A split cable will transmit a lot more current to the USB board than the Mister will.
I'm not clear under what circumstances the MiSTer would ever be powering a powered USB hub (e.g. one of the standard ones sold with MiSTers).
Most of the standard Mister hubs pull power from the Mister, through the USB U-connector. (I've read about one board that uses some kind of metal feet instead, touching the traces on the DE-10, but that sounds poorly designed.) I believe the standard design also has a barrel plug for auxiliary input, so you have the option of routing the power around the DE-10 instead of going through it.
This is less convenient, at least if you have a digital I/O board, because then the power switch on the board is no longer fully functional. When you route the power through the I/O board, then to the Mister, and then to the USB hub, its single switch shuts everything down. If you're plugging the USB board in on a separate lead, then you need a separate power switch.
I don't actually have a standard USB hub to look at, I'm using a powered USB switchbox instead. But I'm pretty sure that's how they work.