The cases on this thread are incredible. But I've always been a fan of the standard "exposed PCB stack" configuration. I wanted to preserve it, while addressing some of its mechanical problems:
- misterfpga.co.uk's SNAC adapter works great, but it's about as secure as a string tied around your finger to remind you of something.
- I like the combined split power cable on/off switch, but I always have to hunt for it amongst the cable clutter!
- The MiSTer is so light it's constantly getting pulled this way and that around (or off!) my desktop.
- I also use Retrofreak's controller adapter (CY-RF-4C). This thing is obscure and old, but with a few extra brass standoffs, the danged thing fits in the MiSTer FPGA PCB stack like it was designed for it. Just one small problem: the SNES controller port doesn't work with MiSTer, and I keep forgetting it.
My solution was to mount everything to a piece of plywood and introduce a small wooden wall. This wall would provide strain relief for the SNAC adapter and something to mount the power switch to. It would also block the non-functional SNES port on the Retrofreak adapter.
rig.jpeg
Build
First, I cut a piece of playwood to size with a circular saw on a piece of insulation foam (Please be careful when operating this tool at home! Use it safely with eye protection, gloves, etc.)
I drilled four holes into the plywood piece and used a slightly larger bit to create some pocket holes around them on the bottom. Then, I inserted four M3 screws up thru the bottom of the plywood and into the brass set stays of my PCB stack. Finally, I stuck on some feet to prevent everything from sliding around.
feet.jpeg
Then, I went about constructing the wall. It consisted of two small blocks stuck together with wood glue. I drilled out two holes and attached the wall to the piece of plywood.
SNAC adapter Snug
I use SNAC often, and would prefer to leave it connected directly to my MiSTer. In my opinion, SNAC and SNAX provide the best authenticity/latency controller combination for most consoles.
But the SNAC Adapter mechanical security is terrible.
I cut two square wooden chopsticks and a thin piece of Birch craft wood. I glued them on to contour the top of the wall such that it would evenly support all the SNAC apparatus.
Finally, I bolted-on a 2cm quick-release buckle for a bike helmet with a Nylon cable clip and a metal brace, to cinch everything down. The fit isn't completely immobile but it's snug, and seems adequate to protect against casual damage.
SNAC snug.jpeg
Mounting the Power Switch
I pried open the power switch and was pleased to discover a little room to work with. I drilled two small holes in the shell back, just large enough to accomodate M2 screws. Then I used a mechanical pencil to mark the corresponding locations of those holes on the wall and drilled some shallow holes in the wood.
power switch innards.jpeg
Afterwards, I was able to attach the power switch with M2 screws. I further secured the cord with a Nylon cable clip. Of course there's still a small cable loop sticking out of the unit, but overall I find it to be a big improvement.
power switch.jpeg
Further Improvements
Misteraddon's stock fan is noisy. I decided to replace it with a Noctura fan, after reading about them here. The new fan is so quiet that I keep having to check to persuade myself it's really running!
Finally, I added a decal of that grumpy MiSTer cat. Voilà!
Conclusion
I'm really happy with how the rig turned out. My MiSTer feels like an unified console now, instead of a bunch of PCB's and USB bric-a-brac stuck together.