MiSTer FPGA Forum

Antonio doesn't often check here, best to email him at the email on his website.

aberu wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 9:03 pm Antonio doesn't often check here, best to email him at the email on his website.

Right, thanks for the tip man!

I'll certainly email him.

Hello, I bought some elements to Antonio Villena (https://www.antoniovillena.es/store/pro ... ry/mister/) :
- SLIM + 128MB kit MiSTer or DRIVE + 128MB kit MiSTer
- Complete set of splitters for MiSTer DB9
- JAMMA adapter for Mister

I'm really happy about these.

I discuss with him by email to have information before buying and he answered quickly. He give all the information that I needed.
When I have received them, I assembled them and I test them. The SDram didn't passed the memory test. I take a video and contact by email Antonio and he send me a new SDram and the new one work really good. So thanks to him

The next step is to test MisterFPGA with original pads and the most important for me put the MisterFPGA with JAMMA adapter into my Astrocity and test it. I hope to do that in the next weeks.
I can give you my feedback about it.

See you soon
DjoSTH

Antonio was awesome! My Mister got lost or stolen during the delivery process and he was kind enough to send me a new one at half price! I felt really bad because it's a lot of work to put these beautiful machines together. But i absolutely recommand his products! It works magnificently!

The only advice I could give him or people ordering in Europe is to use "mondial relay" (when avaialble) as a delivery option, it's around 10E for something like the Mister and your package can't really get lost or stolen, since it's tracked until it's dropped to the pickup place. National post offices are terrible nowaday, especially in France, so I would not trust my product with them...

I hope you'll consider adding this option Antonio, it works great for Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Belgium and a few more. (here is the link if you want to take a look https://www.puntopack.es/ )

But anyway thanks for everything and sorry for taking so long to give you this little shout-out.
I hope you're doing great

I'm sorry to read that you had serious difficulties with getting a MiSTer from Antonio. Having ordered myself a MiSTer from him to France as well, I can somewhat relate, even though my delivery went through without trouble.

I used to think that his case was maybe a little expensive, but after about 9 months of usage, I don't believe so anymore. The case is really nice and slim, which is no small feat given how... "disturbing" some MiSTer cases can be. And it's really a ready-to-go package, with everything featured without any additional tinkering. You just add a microSD and you're good, with both HDMI and analog outputs, integrated speaker for the Minimig core with floppies, and a DB9 port which you can use with some adapter for native controllers.

I would recommend his work to anyone that don't want to mess around and just want to play games, assuming you're ready to pay a little extra that I find totally deserved and justified.

Any chance you could sell the MisterMini case separately or publish the plans to make one?

Hi, yet another MiSTer MINI purchase here.

It's brilliant. Perfect form factor (2 layers instead of 3 on the original MiSTer with IO + USB addons).

Superb options : HIFI audio Dac, RTC, Floppy buzzer for the Amiga (love it, I asked for it to be added), completely silent Noctua fan (I asked Antonio to set it at 3.3V), great db9 port supporting several controllers, sturdy power button, transparency unveiling the leds status... And tiny / supercheap mt32-pi module. Also, really fast delivery between France & Spain.

It's just the perfect MiSTer build for me . The only cons is it requires to use the update_all script and db9/SNAC forks of the cores. But it's just a single toggle and everything is kept up to date automagically.

Thank you again, Antonio !

Hey can you verify that this is how to do the mod? I don’t have any need for the standalone de-10 nano. Do I just need to cut the metal between those 2 points to make the power switch work? How did you do the cut?

Thanks much,
Will

arcam10 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:21 am Hello Antonio,

Can your confirm if i understand your power switch mod ?


Nano-10.JPG

Best regards,

I got the answer from Antonio— yes you only need to cut on the red line if you aren’t planning to use the de-10 nano solo (which I would think most people would not be doing). So, it’s a very easy mod.

Will

willhs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 11, 2021 1:54 pm I got the answer from Antonio— yes you only need to cut on the red line if you aren’t planning to use the de-10 nano solo (which I would think most people would not be doing). So, it’s a very easy mod.

Will

The mod is not only cut the red line. If you do only that, you make the de10 unpowered permanently. The mod is cut the red line and solder 2 pin male header on each side of the cut (electrically). This way if you want to use the de10 nano without IOUSB addon or with official IO, just put a jumper cap on the 2 pin male and you have power.

Received my IOUSB mini6 and RTC add-on boards a few days ago, really good quality builds. There is only one thing I might have missed, as after assembling the boards on the de-10 nano, it seems like the 6 USB connectors are missing power. (Whichever usb keyboard I attach won't work on any of the 6 ports) even with an earlier mister build this problem still arises.

Can anyone tell me if I missed something at assembly? Did anyone else have the same issues?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards,

Chris

Small update..

Thanks to the quick response of Antonio, I've resolved the issue. Seems I misaligned the micro usb bridge pcb.

Got it working as a charm now.

Thanks Antonio

Hi

I bought a MiSTer MINI6 from amigastore as it came fully assembled and had a pre-configured SD card option. Unfortunately I didn't read the "No manual included" text when I bought it. They weren't joking, no instructions at all, not even a diagram showing what the ports are or the 3 buttons do. I'm sure I will figure it out.

I do have 1 question though (probably the stupidest question ever)... where is the SD card slot? I can only spot 1 hole where it could go but it looks too big and I'm afraid the microSD will simply got lost in the case if insert it there. Its not clear which way round it would go either. I am an IT guy so this is quite embarrassing to have to ask!

If you could let me know or point me in the direction of some online docs I would appreciate it. If it requires opening the case, are there instructions to do it correctly?

Thanks

James

You see the cut out for the sd card at the left bottom side at the back under what i assume is a white power button.

From what i see you will probably have to use pencil or something to push the card in the last bit and when taking it out.
Because the case it self plus the bottom piece do build out quite a bit and it´s hard enough to put in/take out even on a bare DE-10.

Hello Antonio:

What is the expected date for the MiSTer PLUS to be available?

Thanks and good job.

Just want to emphasize the *excellent* after-sales service

I just ordered the IOUSB MINI6 for my arcade cabinet that I am building. I am most excited about the RGB888 video DAC which I will be converting to YrPbPr and hooking up to a CRT. This is the main reason I bought this. I am also happy about the high quality audio DAC. I have a few questions:

- What are the two 1/8" jacks for? Is one of them an ADC (audio/tape input) jack? I am guessing it has and ADC jack, and another jack that has the audio out DAC for analog and also the SPDIF out in the same jack, correct?
- Does the DB9 port just work directly with single Atari and Genesis controllers like regular SNAC? Do you need special cores for this to work if you just use one joystick with it? (Edit: I found a great video on Youtube for the MiSTer Plus, and it says you need to configure something in the update_all script to get special cores that come out shortly after the official cores.)
- Are there headers to connect your own buttons and lights, or do I need to solder to the same points where the buttons and lights are already on the board? Since I am putting this into an arcade cabinet, I want to use my own buttons and lights.

Thanks!

I *think* you don't need anything special to use SNAC, however there is DB9 functionality that does require forked cores. This lets you use Genesis (up to 6 button) controller or similar pin-out (atari joystick?) to control forked cores, including the OSD, even though most of these cores were never built for such controllers. You still get that direct, zero-lag control like you would with SNAC and original controllers.

Hello Antonio,
Do you know when the mister fpga will be available on your website?
Thanks.
Best regards.
Akli

Sorry for late reply

thorr wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:27 am I just ordered the IOUSB MINI6 for my arcade cabinet that I am building. I am most excited about the RGB888 video DAC which I will be converting to YrPbPr and hooking up to a CRT. This is the main reason I bought this. I am also happy about the high quality audio DAC. I have a few questions:

- What are the two 1/8" jacks for? Is one of them an ADC (audio/tape input) jack? I am guessing it has and ADC jack, and another jack that has the audio out DAC for analog and also the SPDIF out in the same jack, correct?

The black one is ADC and the green one is analog (I2S PCM5122 based) and SPDIF.

thorr wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:27 am - Does the DB9 port just work directly with single Atari and Genesis controllers like regular SNAC? Do you need special cores for this to work if you just use one joystick with it? (Edit: I found a great video on Youtube for the MiSTer Plus, and it says you need to configure something in the update_all script to get special cores that come out shortly after the official cores.)

DB9 port is equivalent to USB3 in official ones (but protected against 5V). Yes, you need special cores. Can be configured with update_all scripts.

thorr wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:27 am - Are there headers to connect your own buttons and lights, or do I need to solder to the same points where the buttons and lights are already on the board? Since I am putting this into an arcade cabinet, I want to use my own buttons and lights.

Thanks!

For buttons you need to solder same points. For led lights you have separate footprints for through hole leds. Of course you can solder 3mm or 5mm leds directly or wiring them to external ones.

akslerat wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 6:41 pm Hello Antonio,
Do you know when the mister fpga will be available on your website?
Thanks.
Best regards.
Akli

I depend on de10 nano boards. I can buy from digikey or mouser but at this moment it's not available. There is not a confirmed date when they come back. Mouser has an expected date of 28 January but I am not sure on that date. For kits without de10 nano I am plenty of stock

antoniovillena wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 3:02 pm

akslerat wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 6:41 pm Hello Antonio,
Do you know when the mister fpga will be available on your website?
Thanks.
Best regards.
Akli

I depend on de10 nano boards. I can buy from digikey or mouser but at this moment it's not available. There is not a confirmed date when they come back. Mouser has an expected date of 28 January but I am not sure on that date. For kits without de10 nano I am plenty of stock

I’m in line for mouser and had an email saying despatch it’s predicted Jan 31st.. the wait is killing me because I have all the rest of the parts to put my mister together.

Hola Antonio,
I wanted to play a couple shooting games on with My Genesis and Sega Master but I cant get 'em to work. I am up to date with all my files including todays new db9 updates. My genesis gun and sega master gun are in working condition..

Hello, is there a way to use the jamma adpater (form Anotio of course) with 6 Buttons without the kick harness? My sixth button is connected jo pin 27 (and the opposite site for player 2) on my jamma connector.

I know on some adapters, you have to solder a bridge or cut a bridge to enable that.

Pepeart wrote: ↑Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:55 am Hola Antonio,
I wanted to play a couple shooting games on with My Genesis and Sega Master but I cant get 'em to work. I am up to date with all my files including todays new db9 updates. My genesis gun and sega master gun are in working condition..

Hi. I have replied by email

HerrBerzerk wrote: ↑Tue Feb 15, 2022 5:21 pm Hello, is there a way to use the jamma adpater (form Anotio of course) with 6 Buttons without the kick harness? My sixth button is connected jo pin 27 (and the opposite site for player 2) on my jamma connector.

I know on some adapters, you have to solder a bridge or cut a bridge to enable that.

Yes. In this model there are two 3-pads jumper under the capacitor. These pads are preconfigured with 27 and d to GND. You must cut the small wire between the pads and solder the other 2 pads. This way both JAMMA pins will be connected as 6th button instead GND.

I recently received my JAMMA Adapter from Antonio, but when plugged into my cabinet none of the buttons are recognised, only the directional joystick is recognised, all grounds are to the same point(ie the stick and the buttons are the same ground).
I know he isn't that active here but I've emailed Antonio and had no response so hoping maybe another user can help before I give up.

You can probably get more help from others if you post a new tread instead of here!

Thanks, will do, got a little bit further, so will try figure out myself first

antoniovillena wrote: ↑Sat Jun 27, 2020 9:04 pm

Lisko wrote: ↑Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:16 pm Hi Antonio, I'm interested in your mister case kit. From where is powered the usb hub? And are the instructions for the power switch provided in the order?

The USB is powered from 5V main power. For the power switch work you need modify the de10 nano. Just open the circuit on the jack connector and use 2 pin male right angle like in the picture. This way when you use de10 alone you can put a jumper cap to short the circuit.

Edit: The MOD on de10 nano is optional. Of course if you don't make it, the MiSTer is always ON

For anyone looking for help with this IO USB Plus power button mod, here were the steps I went through:
I should have streamed/recorded this

1. Ordered these pins from AMZ, Pin Pitch: 2.54mm; Pin Length: 8mm - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DTGXJ1W/

2. Cut these down to 2 pins and dismantled by DE-10 nano, removed Ram, SD card etc.

3. Then took a small sharp knife and scored across the rear contact of the DC-in jack on the DC-10 nano (enough to create a groove)

4. Took a small hacksaw blade to this groove, and cut gently until I broke this contact in two, creating a gap in the middle. I checked with a multi-meter that there was no longer continuity between the top half and bottom half. Be careful and go easy with the blade, its ok to cut into the plastic of the jack - but not much

5. Used a compressed air can to blow off dust/cutting

6. Took some a very small 1cm long (single-core) wire and stripped it, then soldered it to one of the bottom pins of the header

7. Bent the end of this wire so it could line up with the (now split) top pad of the DC-in jack, while the other bottom header pin lined up with the bottom pad on DC-in jack

8. Applied solder flux to the pads of the jack, then tapped some solder on each

9. (Now the tricky/awkward part) - lined up the bottom pin of the header, and the bent wire to the top/bottom pads on the jack, soldered one to hold it in place, then soldered the other.

10. Tested with continuity on multi-meter to ensure good connection between pads and pins, and that they were still isolated from each other.

11. More compressed air to clean

12. Assemble IO USB Plus board to DE-10 again, checking that all pins line up.

13. Add power to board and test!

That's it!