MiSTer FPGA Forum

For a while now I've been having issues with hdmi sync, a specific crashes in Cadillac's and Dinosaurs and finally the USB devices not always powering up.

Today I figured I would investigate as to why this is happening..... i narrowed the root cause to my in-line power switch when I removed it and use the plug from my 5v 8a power supply directly.... all USB devices would boot up just fine and if I reinstalled the inline switch it would behave erratically all over again.

Well I decided to squeeze the female barrel plug end on the inline switch to be more oval then circular and low and behold with the inline switch installed everything is working rock solid once again.

Just wanted to share my experience with the inline switch and issues I was encountering.

A couple off what i think is relevant questions.
How old/how long have you used the inline switch?
Do you leave it plugged in all the time or unplug/plugin it in all the time?

So age/wear and tear that is.

I had to step on my connector to squash it as well when I first got it, as advised by the seller I got it from.

I guess the inner connector of these are of the cheap Chinese style: it is not a hollow cylinder which fits very tightly on the pin of the socket but a "tuning fork" style one. I always have been suspicious of these. It is a better explanation than a bad switch.

jca wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 12:13 pm I guess the inner connector of these are of the cheap Chinese style: it is not a hollow cylinder which fits very tightly on the pin of the socket but a "tuning fork" style one. I always have been suspicious of these. It is a better explanation than a bad switch.

It actually is a cylinder, just slightly too large apparently.

grizzly wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 2:56 am A couple off what i think is relevant questions.
How old/how long have you used the inline switch?
Do you leave it plugged in all the time or unplug/plugin it in all the time?

So age/wear and tear that is.

I had it for a while and then relocated all my gear to a different room. I believe that's when it started happening, just never had the time to investigate it until a couple of days ago. Now that the connection is snug I've had no issues since.

I just took mine apart today and replaced the insides with an actual metal SPST switch. I was able to get it to fit in the original plastic case. It's not as pretty, but it's reliable now.

The original little switch is very flimsy- I'm surprised it ever worked reliably.

So it started acting flakey again.... I pulled out the switch and measured the resistance from the positive pin which the switch controls.... it measured any where between 1 ohm to half an ohm. That's way too much resistances for a pass-through mechanical switch and explains the erratic behavior. Seems my search will continue for an ideal switch. This one garbage.

I decided to pick up a lamp in-line switch and cut the barrel cord on my 5v 10a supply. I measured the resistance on the switch before installing it and it was roughly 0.07 ohms.

The switch is supposed to light up when powered but since it's a small lamp (not led) it does not light up. But that's ok.

Voltage after installing the switch (without load) was the same as when the switch was not installed.

I recommend this switch for you DIY types.

Tell us in a few months, when rust has had a chance to build up.

Lubricant oil in spray, if the switch structure allows for the contacts to be reached by it, usually cures rust issues for a while.

I guess your joking.... not sure why it would rust. When I opened it up there was no lubricants on the switch. Just the copper connectors. But if you like I will keep you up to date.

I'm pretty sure the mister doesn't have a mist function that would lessen the life of the switch.... but I could be wrong...

Here is my mod.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tFPnkbNqqpmpKiPc8