HDMI digital audio extractor for MiSTer with SPDIF input

[Airbag]

Hello,

I'm not sure If I am in the right subforum, but let's try here.

I would like to connect my MiSTer digital audio output (through HDMI) and my PC digital audio output (through SPDIF) to a single DAC / audio extractor that will feed my speakers. (Both analog audio outputs of my PC and MiSTer are crappy)

Do you think this device could work ?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XXJ5VT9

711tKqEQ7YL._SL1500_.jpg (145.39 KiB) Viewed 4606 times

I'm afraid it won't, because the HDMI input of this device has to be connected to some "ARC" TV, and MiSTer is probably not "ARC" compatible ?

So if it's confirmed, I'm back to starting point :

Has anyone seen a device (below $150) that takes both SPDIF and HDMI as audio inputs, and can output Stereo 2.0 audio as analog output (RCA or jack) ?

(Big plus if there is also a "HDMI out pass-through" for video, but that's not mandatory)

[edr]

For the device pictured, if you can take digital coax audio from your PC to it, then you could take mini toslink or full size toslink optical from your MiSTer to the optical input.

If you use something like the Audioengine D1, you could connect your PC to it via USB, and take mini toslink or full size toslink optical from your MiSTer to the DAC optical in.

Some other DAC brands - Schiit, Cambridge Audio, Sennheiser, Nagra, Topping, Sound Blaster

MonoPrice makes all kinds of audio extractors, maybe worth a look to see what's possible.

If you don't already have speakers, there are some powered/bookshelf models with built-in DACs and lots of inputs, like Vanatoo T0 or T1, Klipsch and others.

Lots of info -
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php

cheapaudioman reviews lots of equipment and some dacs
https://www.youtube.com/c/cheapaudioman

[justaguy]

From my limited understanding of ARC (I've never actually used it so take all this with a grain of salt), your source device doesn't need to be ARC-compatible, only your display and audio output device (receiver/soundbar/the box you're asking about). So I think it would work if you connected the MiSTer to an ARC-compatible TV and connected the TV's ARC port to the extractor box. I wouldn't expect it to work with regular old HDMI audio, so just connecting the MiSTer's HDMI output to the ARC port wouldn't work, and even if it did you'd have to split the MiSTer HDMI output in order to get the signal to your display (I assume this is why you asked about passthrough functionality).

All that said, here are some alternate solutions that don't rely on ARC:

1. Get an HDMI audio extractor (I've used this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYJT4WM), connect its TOSLINK output and the one from your PC (I'm assuming your PC has optical/TOSLINK output and not coax, both are technically S/PDIF) to a cheap passive TOSLINK switch (the one I have doesn't seem to be sold anymore, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ2BC9X looks similar), then connect the output from the switch to a DAC that outputs line-level audio (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ is a cheap one, can't vouch for the quality though).
2. Same as above, but instead of the audio extractor, use the optical output from the MiSTer's IO board (analog or digital will work, though digital has the advantage of a full-size TOSLINK port). This is the solution I currently use. If you don't have an IO board this is a great excuse to get one.
3. Same basic idea again, but if your TV has an optical audio output you can use that in place of the audio extractor or IO board.

For any of the above, if your only sources are the MiSTer and the PC, you can use a DAC with optical and USB inputs and eliminate the need for an optical switch. I use a Schiit Modi 3+ (https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1) but there are certainly lower-cost options that would do the job.

[Airbag]

Thanks for taking time to reply.

For the device pictured, if you can take digital coax audio from your PC to it, then you could take mini toslink or full size toslink optical from your MiSTer to the optical input.

If you use something like the Audioengine D1, you could connect your PC to it via USB, and take mini toslink or full size toslink optical from your MiSTer to the DAC optical in.

Alas, no to both. I carefully considered my needs, they are not to be discussed.
The toslink optical ouput of my MiSTer is broken (and no, I can't repair it), and I do need to avoid any direct electrical link between my PC soundcard and my speakers (because of interferences, ground loop, etc) so no USB, no coax, etc : just optical toslink.

Some other DAC brands - Schiit, Cambridge Audio, Sennheiser, Nagra, Topping, Sound Blaster

MonoPrice makes all kinds of audio extractors, maybe worth a look to see what's possible.

If you don't already have speakers, there are some powered/bookshelf models with built-in DACs and lots of inputs, like Vanatoo T0 or T1, Klipsch and others.

Lots of info -
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php

cheapaudioman reviews lots of equipment and some dacs
https://www.youtube.com/c/cheapaudioman

I know these links, and I spent quite a lot of time on this audio forum.
Because I found nothing that meet my criteria, I'm asking here for a specific reference that someone knows or (let's dream !) uses.
You can see my thread as a desperate move before I buy 2 different and mostly redundant devices (maybe a generic hdmi audio extractor and a Fiio Taishan D03K)

Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to answer, but that's not the kind of advice I'm looking for.

[Airbag]

[*] Get an HDMI audio extractor (I've used this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYJT4WM), connect its TOSLINK output and the one from your PC (I'm assuming your PC has optical/TOSLINK output and not coax, both are technically S/PDIF) to a cheap passive TOSLINK switch (the one I have doesn't seem to be sold anymore, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ2BC9X looks similar), then connect the output from the switch to a DAC that outputs line-level audio (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ is a cheap one, can't vouch for the quality though).

This part seems relevant to my case ! It could be another backup plan if I can't find my device (instead of buying 2 cheap DACs)
I have never thought about a Toslink switch, looks very interesting.
How fast does it switch from a source to another, after you turn the knob ?
It is entirely passive, right ? (No usb power needed ?)

[Edit : it requires 3 devices, so let's say its the backup plan of the backup plan. But I'm still interested by the concept of toslink switches]

[justaguy]

This part seems relevant to my case ! It could be another backup plan if I can't find my device (instead of buying 2 cheap DACs)
I have never thought about a Toslink switch, looks very interesting.
How fast does it switch from a source to another, after you turn the knob ?
It is entirely passive, right ? (No usb power needed ?)

[Edit : it requires 3 devices, so let's say its the backup plan of the backup plan. But I'm still interested by the concept of toslink switches]

The one I have (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002OF2FC) is entirely passive and I don't see why others of this style wouldn't be. I just checked and the sound starts immediately after turning the dial without any delay that I can perceive. It's worth noting that this style of switch tends to get lower review scores on Amazon than active switches, but mine hasn't given me any trouble, for what it's worth.

I can sympathize with wanting a single-device solution. The best I can come up with would be an HDMI switch with built-in analog audio extractor (like https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5557), but that assumes you'd be OK with using HDMI audio from your PC. Never mind, I just saw your other reply where you mentioned that optical audio from the PC is a requirement.