MiSTer FPGA Forum

Hello,

I’ve been using Mister for some years now without problem. I’ve had it connected to both a CRT and a 4k LG CX - no problems.

Recently, my Mister has been locking up (i.e. the controller ceases to work, can’t get to OSD menu but game is running in the background).

Now, i’ve recently added a bluetooth adapter to my Mister and synced a PS5 controller. All working fine (at first). I presumed it was this so took out the bluetooth adapter, played around for a bit and it ‘locks up’ again.

Connected to my Mister is the wireless sega saturn controller dongle, wi-fi dongle, bluetooth dongle, keyboard and mouse dongle (and the usual power, hdmi cables etc...)

Has anyone experienced this before? Is there any chance it could be overheating? Any chance my RGB scart cable has become ‘bad’?

What sort of things might cause this?

If you need any photos or information please let me know. I’d really appreciate any help anyone can give me.

Cheers,

The first i would try is skip all wireless things and try running the mister with only cable connected things.
Then you can at least rule out wireless being the culprit if the problem continues.

And if wireless is the culprit it could be a power issue, what psu do you use?

I'd try another psu as thats quite a bit of stuff plugged into the usb. But first unplug everything but the keyboard and see if that runs ok>?

Thank you both,

Good suggestions! By way of update - i unplugged my RGB scart from my CRT TV and just ran the mister on my 4k TV. Seemed to work perfectly for over an hour with loads of different cores. No controller drops outs, all cores worked perfect (just like old times).

I’m wondering, then, if the VGA to SCART cable could be an issue? I’ve got looooads of things plugged into my gscart and the power outlets, just wondering if it could have been something electrical / feedback? (fyi, i’ve no idea what i’m talking about....).

Unless you think this is an absolute stupid idea, I may try a new / better scart cable to see if that fixes it because I really feel it’s now only happening on the CRT side of things.

Assuming that the scart ‘could’ be an issue - does anyone have any suggestions as to a reputable provider / make of these?

Thanks again for the help!

Try without the Gscart switch and go directly to the tv and see what happens.

grizzly wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 5:37 pm Try without the Gscart switch and go directly to the tv and see what happens.

My mister has never actually worked with the gscart; it’s plugged directly into the TV.

With zero knowledge or know-how i’ve convinced myself it’s either the PSU as you guys suggested or, somehow, the rgb scart cable is causing the mister some difficulties. Seems strange that I can play perfectly most of the time on the 4k TV and there are hiccups on the crt.

Does sometimes re-seating a USB device into a different slot work with complications? My uneducated brain suggests ‘no’, but what do I know?

Cheers!

I've seen a few of these lockups ever since I started using a NAS for my ROM loading. something gets out of sync during the ROM loading or loading the BIOS and it gets all wonky.

Are you using a NAS?

aberu wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:10 pm I've seen a few of these lockups ever since I started using a NAS for my ROM loading. something gets out of sync during the ROM loading or loading the BIOS and it gets all wonky.

Are you using a NAS?

Nope, nothing like that mate.

Okay.

1. What is your bluetooth dongle?

2. Have you tried using a pigtail adapter for your bluetooth dongle?

It kinda sounds like your bluetooth dongle in general isn't working. It sounds like it's losing the connection to your controller at the first sign of a hiccup in the connection. For the DualSense I noticed that when the bluetooth adapter lost connection (as a result of a bad bluetooth adapter I got rid of) the DualSense still glowed for a bit like it was connected, it didn't immediately flash when it disconnected. It was really weird.

Also you mentioned you are using a scart cable.

https://www.retrorgb.com/beware-of-mist ... ables.html

There needs to be a 470ish ohm resistor on the SCART line. If there isn't, it isn't the right kind of cable.

aberu wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 11:36 pm Okay.

1. What is your bluetooth dongle?

2. Have you tried using a pigtail adapter for your bluetooth dongle?

It kinda sounds like your bluetooth dongle in general isn't working. It sounds like it's losing the connection to your controller at the first sign of a hiccup in the connection. For the DualSense I noticed that when the bluetooth adapter lost connection (as a result of a bad bluetooth adapter I got rid of) the DualSense still glowed for a bit like it was connected, it didn't immediately flash when it disconnected. It was really weird.

Also you mentioned you are using a scart cable.

https://www.retrorgb.com/beware-of-mist ... ables.html

There needs to be a 470ish ohm resistor on the SCART line. If there isn't, it isn't the right kind of cable.

Thank you - the bluetooth dongle I got from here: https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... er-dongle/ - when it works, it works perfectly. I’ve not tried a pigtail adapter (i may have tolook up what this is).

I’m starting to think my issue is as simple as a new psu. I was speaking to the guy who sold me the bundle and he reckons he gave me a 2v psu (or similar) but i’ve i’ve got a fair few usb devices connected then I should upgrade to 5v 4 ohm psu (which I’ve now boight).

I’m hoping the new psu provides a correct and realiable / steady power source each time I turn it on.

If this works then great; if not, i think i’ll try a different scart cable and ensure, like you said, it has the correct resistor etc.... i’ll report back in case this is helpful for anyone else.

Cheers!

If you are using HDMI, it is not electrically isolated from the MiSTer and can cause issues. There are many threads about this. Some have found using a converter or other device as a buffer can help.

Also, the 2A power supply is often not enough for a hub and other devices, especially wireless or RGB keyboards. You should upgrade to a known, very good, clean 4A (or better) supply. i.e. not a cheap one from the cheapest manufacturing places in the world. Get a Delta or a Mean Well.

Also, do not use an inline power switch on the DC side of the adapter. Even if it appears to work at first, it will starve the connection over time and cause voltage or current dropouts and crash the MiSTer.

ShyTalk wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 10:40 am Thank you - the bluetooth dongle I got from here: https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... er-dongle/ - when it works, it works perfectly. I’ve not tried a pigtail adapter (i may have tolook up what this is).

Something like this. Sorry, I tend to call them by the wrong name technically by habit LOL

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Ext ... 00NH136GE/

ShyTalk wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 10:40 am I’m starting to think my issue is as simple as a new psu. I was speaking to the guy who sold me the bundle and he reckons he gave me a 2v psu (or similar) but i’ve i’ve got a fair few usb devices connected then I should upgrade to 5v 4 ohm psu (which I’ve now boight).

I’m hoping the new psu provides a correct and realiable / steady power source each time I turn it on.

If this works then great; if not, i think i’ll try a different scart cable and ensure, like you said, it has the correct resistor etc.... i’ll report back in case this is helpful for anyone else.

Cheers!

Good luck!

Thanks again everyone.

I did some testing without the in-line power cable and everything seems good again. You mentioned it starves power over time - well, this seems to be exactly what was happening.

I’ll keep testing but it’s looking more and more like the in-line switch was causing issues.

Cheers

rcade wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:16 pm Also, do not use an inline power switch on the DC side of the adapter. Even if it appears to work at first, it will starve the connection over time and cause voltage or current dropouts and crash the MiSTer.

Been reading about this issue with some worry for a while.

To be clear, are switches with this issue causing long-term physical damage to some component(s) on the DE10 or USB board?

Wave wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 5:23 pm

rcade wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:16 pm Also, do not use an inline power switch on the DC side of the adapter. Even if it appears to work at first, it will starve the connection over time and cause voltage or current dropouts and crash the MiSTer.

Been reading about this issue with some worry for a while.

To be clear, are switches with this issue causing long-term physical damage to some component(s) on the DE10 or USB board?

Sorry - I wish I knew the answer. For what it’s worth my experience seems to be:

1. I started with the in-line cable and everything works great;
2. I slowly add more USB devices (comtrollers, bluetooth, wifi etc...);
3. Seemingly (but not proven) the more I added and the more I used my Mister in this fashion the more it would mis-fire on startup (i.e. it would start but USB devices wouldn’t register) and, more recently, controllers would disconnect during gameplay;
4. I remove the in-line cable (but kept everything else the same) and, so far, it’s like it was when it was brand new (i.e. everything working correctly as soon as I turn it on and all USB devices registering - no losing controller commection during extended play);

As you’ll see above, I originally thought it could have been my PSU that was causing issues as the guy who put it together for me said he thought he gave me a 2v plug (or similar). Well, upon checking the plug it’s 5v and 3.5 ohm which is pretty close to being the ‘standard’. So I’ve kept on using the plug (without the in-line) and my Mister seems to be in perfect health althought i’m no expert and i’ve no idea if i’ve, for example, reduced the life of my Mister.

Anyway, my very un-expert opinion would be to ditch the in-line if you are able, especially if you’ve got 3+ usb/scart/vga/hdmi connections all concurrently running.

Believe me you haven't shorted the life of your Mister. With all the the things i have done to de10's i should probably be arrested for cruelty and they all survived.

Those inline switches are made with fairy hair thickness wires and should be avoided at all costs.

https://ko-fi.com/s/3b85640bab - If you want a good switch, d0pefish (the maker of MT32-Pi) makes an excellent one if you us an Analog IO board.

aberu wrote: ↑Fri Feb 25, 2022 3:33 pm https://ko-fi.com/s/3b85640bab - If you want a good switch, d0pefish (the maker of MT32-Pi) makes an excellent one if you us an Analog IO board.

I also recommend Dale's splitter/switch.

Yes, the wires are too large of gauge and the switch doesn't make good enough contact, especially once it gets oxidized a little over time.

Does it help to place the switch in the AC side?