Which Racing Wheel Controllers Have You Got Going?

[zezretro]

I am trying to make a summary of the state of racing wheels on MiSTer. I have about 6 wheels here myself to test and this is a summary of what I have found. Tested these on the PSX core with Gran Turismo 1 & 2.

Logitech GT
Works with Atrac17's linux kernel patch
Works well overall

Thrustmaster T300
Overall works but is fiddly to configure in the mister and in-game

Logitech Driving Force RX
Works with Atrac17's linux kernel patch
Brake and accelerator have issues

Thrustmaster PS3 T80 (no force feedback)
steering works but pedals dont work

Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Italia Xbox 360 (no force feedback)
Everything seems fine in the menu but in the game there are phantom button presses which make the game unplayable

Fanatec PS1 (no force feedback)
works great plug and play using SNAC
Doesn't work with PS1 to USB adapter

If you have a wheel going on MiSTer can you tell me below?

[twonunpackmule]

I tested and got working Logitech G29 and G290.

The only issue I faced with the two wheels were brakes not behaving "correctly." However, I believe by follow the directions for setup on the MiSTer Main but swapping Clutch for Brakes on Outrun, led to me resolving the issue on that particular game.

Both wheels worked for Playstation core just fine.

[zezretro]

That is interesting the G290 worked! Were you using the Atrac17 kernerl patch to make those 2 wheels work?

[netbeui]

Are you guys using a patched MiSTer or the standard binary? I picked up a Logitech Formula Force GP for cheap, doesn’t seem to be recognized by the standard MiSTer so I’m gonna try the patched one by Atrac next. Also wondering if whatever magic Atrac did to get wheels recognized will eventually end up in the standard MiSTer distro

[bankshot]

I was unable to get my Logitech G29 wheel working with atrac's updated kernel. For me the config bombs out in MiSTer Main after setting up the pedals (i.e. pressing the right DPAD direction for the R assignment is not recognized). This is when using the config steps mentioned by atrac on his Patreon post.

It's very frustrating because I can see the wheel/pedals getting recognized as working on the Gamepad Input tester utility.

[jordi]

I tried this one
viewtopic.php?t=5813

But it is not even clear how to use it

[M.Walrus]

I am moving further updates to this T300RS-specific post into it's own thread here: viewtopic.php?t=5982

I've had a great experience with a variety of games on MiSTer using the T300RS, and wanted to share some basic configuration information, per-game configuration settings, and pre-configured input map files to make things easier for folks wanting to try it as well. This wheel provides a lot of great experiences on MiSTer if you know how to configure it correctly.

Keep in mind that some of these configurations are meant specifically for use with the 3-pedal set for T300RS, called the T3PA. Should work fine for the two-pedal default set as well, but some games are specifically configured with 3-pedal use in mind, like Out Run for PC Engine and Spy Hunter Arcade.

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Basic Configuration:

Grab my main map file here, or configure as shown below: https://mega.nz/file/XB1CXC5a#l433E7ckI ... P9QPPHm3Eo

Here are the bindings you want to set in the main (menu) core - skip all the mouse emulation stuff:
Stick 1 Test Tilt Right - Wheel Right
Stick 1 Test Tilt Down - Gas Light/Quick Tap
Stick 2 Test Tilt Right - Clutch Light/Quick Tap (skip this if using the stock two pedal set)
Stick 2 Test Tilt Down - Brake Light/Quick Tap
D-pad and face/shoulder buttons in normal locations.
Menu - L3 Button On Base To Prevent Accidental OSD While Playing
Stick 1 Tilt Right - Wheel Right
Stick 1 Tilt Down - Gas Light/Quick Tap

It's very important with this wheel to press each pedal very lightly and quickly when binding, otherwise it will try assigning multiple functions to the axis in each direction. This can make it so that when it asks to assign the d-pad and face buttons, the wheel is entirely unresponsive. If this occurs, cancel the binding and then start again from scratch until the other buttons register. Make sure to test them when you're done to be sure you didn't accidentally bind something you did not intend to the analog axis'!

The most important thing for MiSTer usage currently, is knowing the hardware button combinations to do things like limiting the wheel rotation range. You'll want the lowest setting (270 degree) generally for older arcade-style games, though perhaps kick the radius up a notch for things like Gran Turismo on PlayStation. Use these instead of mister.ini options for radius for best results, as they trigger the force feedback of the wheel at the desired radius. I've compiled a list of these button combinations, but for all of them to work you need to have the latest firmware for the wheel: https://pastebin.com/Qk2Tbq0s

If you're trying to (re)bind normal button presses to the pedals, be sure to hold the applicable pedals down half-way before entering the (re)binding screen, and then press and hold down all the way before pressing the digital button you would like to bind there. This prevents the button from being applied to the negative axis direction and being continually pressed when the pedal is released.

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Here are the things I've tried on MiSTer with this wheel, using the T3PA three-pedal set with 270-degree mode set on the wheel unless otherwise noted:

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-- Out Run for PC Engine in XE-1AP analog mode. This is a near-perfect setup, with the only quirk being that the clutch pedal is used as a shifter. This is necessary because XE-1AP controller used analog up/down for shifting, and is quite easy to use with the clutch pedal as an alternative. You only ever have to hold in the clutch to be in low gear, so it's only pressed at the beginning of the race or when recovering from an accident. This configuration requires custom main bindings to correctly apply the pedals to the correct functions! I've provided them below in a zip to make this easy to drop-in and play, but be sure to back up your main wheel bindings first so you don't need to re-do them!

Input map files & notes for this setup: https://mega.nz/file/DJcx3CwZ#UJqbzJ1Qp ... _LKmhwHavE

Video example: https://youtu.be/dKc45g3GOS4

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-- Spy Hunter Arcade with full analog steering and gas control. This one also uses the clutch (or brake) pedal for switching gears, and much like Out Run you only want to be in low gear when first starting or continuing from a crash or weapons van. Unfortunately the core treats the high/low gear function as a button that needs to be held, so to get around this the pedal is used and is only in low gear when pressed in, and remains in high gear when released. In the arcade this functioned as a toggle that did not require holding anything down. Hopefully the core will have an option to switch between these two modes, as both are indeed handy depending on the input device being used. There is no brake function on the arcade original, so you just release gas to brake. The large number of face buttons on the wheel are perfect for a game like Spy Hunter and after a bit of practice felt very natural to the original arcade experience. Make sure to set the following core options: Accelerator: Analog , Steering: Analog X

My input map file for Spy Hunter (weapons on L2/R2 & Paddles): https://mega.nz/file/GBk1CSAB#z5WOGdiPG ... LQ85CpdnvQ

Video example: https://youtu.be/6My64aeuBbc

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-- Ridge Racer Type 4 for PlayStation. Perfect analog wheel control with full analog gas & brake. Core options- P1 Input: NegCon-Wheel. In-game options- NegCon control type: A , Steering Play: 3mm , Max Rotation: 45 Degrees

Video examples: https://youtu.be/nWiCh_pfNN0 , https://youtu.be/odnCjnErKfs

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-- Gran Turismo for PlayStation. 360 Degree Wheel Mode! Perfect analog wheel control with full analog gas & brake.
Core options- P1 Input: NegCon-Wheel. In-game options- Analog Setting: 0, 127, 1, 253, 2, 253, 2

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-- Colin McRae Rally 2.0 for PlayStation. 360 Degree Wheel Mode! Perfect analog wheel control with full analog gas & brake.
Core options- P1 Input: NegCon-Wheel. Calibrate in game options.

Video example: https://youtu.be/rwonb7c_Iqw

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I am moving further updates to this T300RS-specific post into it's own thread here: viewtopic.php?t=5982

[bankshot]

Great post M.Walrus, thank you for sharing your experience!! You've inspired me to take another crack at getting my Logitech G29 setup to work.

I too was noticing the "double-press" when trying to configure my clutch pedal. I had to do the same light/quick press to make it only configure one function instead of two. Now I'm starting to wonder if I got a double-press somewhere earlier in the configuration that was causing the D-pad assignment section to be unresponsive.

The bigger question I have is, why is the MiSTer config doing this? I used to have the same problem on one of the top shoulder buttons on a PS4 controller. If I pushed it in normally, it would cycle through two config steps instead of just one. Is it an issue with the MiSTer config code that isn't ignoring any input after the initial press of the button?

[M.Walrus]

Great post M.Walrus, thank you for sharing your experience!! You've inspired me to take another crack at getting my Logitech G29 setup to work.

I too was noticing the "double-press" when trying to configure my clutch pedal. I had to do the same light/quick press to make it only configure one function instead of two. Now I'm starting to wonder if I got a double-press somewhere earlier in the configuration that was causing the D-pad assignment section to be unresponsive.

The bigger question I have is, why is the MiSTer config doing this? I used to have the same problem on one of the top shoulder buttons on a PS4 controller. If I pushed it in normally, it would cycle through two config steps instead of just one. Is it an issue with the MiSTer config code that isn't ignoring any input after the initial press of the button?

My guess is that it is assigning functions to both the negative and positive value of the axis, instead of simply binding the axis as one function for each step.

[AfterBurnett]

Stick 2 Test Tilt Right - Clutch Light/Quick Tap (skip this if using the stock two pedal set)

If you skip this step you can't use stick 2 at all, as it won't prompt for "stick 2 test tilt down". Is there a way around this for us pauper 2-pedal users?

[M.Walrus]

Stick 2 Test Tilt Right - Clutch Light/Quick Tap (skip this if using the stock two pedal set)

If you skip this step you can't use stick 2 at all, as it won't prompt for "stick 2 test tilt down". Is there a way around this for us pauper 2-pedal users?

Oof I hadn't thought of this. If its a thrustmaster wheel maybe try using the linked config I posted. I'll try to find the two pedal set that came with my wheel originally and see if this works at some point

[AfterBurnett]

Oof I hadn't thought of this. If its a thrustmaster wheel maybe try using the linked config I posted. I'll try to find the two pedal set that came with my wheel originally and see if this works at some point

Sadly, it's a Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel.

[M.Walrus]

Oof I hadn't thought of this. If its a thrustmaster wheel maybe try using the linked config I posted. I'll try to find the two pedal set that came with my wheel originally and see if this works at some point

Sadly, it's a Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel.

Logitech has better support on MiSTer for wheels than the Thrustmaster wheel I'm using. Have you tried skipping all analog bindings when binding the wheel in mister main? The way it works for wheels that already have support built-in is that you just bind the digital buttons on the wheel and skip all the analog prompts with either a keyboard or the user button on the IO board. Give that a try if you haven't yet.

[jordi]

The Thrustmaster force feedback racing wheel. It had some Ferarri logo, and it works perfectly thanks to a PR https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/pull/801